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Clicking sound. Ice maker would not work and trip the braker if you tries to use it.
1. Pulled refrigerator out 2. Unpluged the refrigerator 3. Removed the three screws holding the cover on. 4. Removed Board ASM Main Control. 5. Unpluged Connector's. 6. Pluged Connector's in to new Board ASM Main Control. 7. Put cover back on. 8. Pluged refrigerator back in. 9. Pushed refrigerator back into place.
It was a very simple installation after reading about everyone else having the same "noise" problem with their GE side by side refrigerator.
I simply; pulled the refrigerator out, turned off the power, took off the 3 screws to remove the plate, unhooked the 5 or so connections with my hands, put the new part in, hooked the connections up, put the plate back on, plugged the refrigerator back in, and slid in back into place. It took around 10 minutes to do, very simple.
Unplug the refrigerator from the wall plug and take the plate off of the circuit board in the back of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the board in place. Remove the board by pinching the little white pins holding the board inplace. Disconnect the wires from the circuit board and install the new board in its place. Notice the wire prongs so that they are connected the same as they were on the previous board. Replace the screws that hold the cover. Plug it in. If it does not turn on, remove the plug from the wall and re insert it. The new board has to reset itself.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Periodic and intermittent "clicking," during which the lights on the temp control unit would go out. When clicking stopped and lights returned, temp control unit was not accepting adjustments in temp
Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
Everything seemed to be working right, but no cooling, so I tried turning on and off the switch that turns the light on 5 times within two seconds, refrigerator did not shot. so I removed the main board and I notice a short had taken place on one of the relay legs. I ordered the main board and replaced it. The main board is on the back of the freezer covered with a sheet metal panel about 8"x8" and is secured with hex sheet metal screws. Everything is working now. Please make sure to unplug the unit from power before removing the main board.
The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay. The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord, I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor. Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
