Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
slides worn and belt broken
Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job
Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports. Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab. Support the drum at the top using piece of rope. Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached). Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit. Reinstall the the heating unit Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier. Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier. Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw. Reassemble in reverse order.
Removed top panel giving access to drum and screws that hold front panel (door). Removed to screws to be able to remove front panel but be careful wires are short not giving you much room to remove panel. Removed plastic Drum Bearing and replaced with New one. Installed slides and put back together.
The instructions that came with the bearing were limited and the illustrations were too dark to see. However, after reading the reports of others on this website, the repair was very easy.
Prior to disassembly, remove theaccess panel on the rear of the dryer. Pull the belt drive pulley arm up and the belt will easily slide off of the motor pulley. The belt can be left on the drum.
Then, remove two screws at the inside top of the dryer door. The top of the dryer will then lift up at the front and slide forward to remove. This will allow you access to two bolt head screws on each side of the front panel. Remove these two screws and then lift the panel slightly up and forward. The front panel will then be free and the dryer drum will slide forward and out. Remove the four bolt head screws (behind the electric elements) from the heater element on the inside back of the dryer box.
You can now exchange the bearing on the drum and the bearing insert on the dryer heating element simply by removing the old and reinstalling the new just as the old was removed - four screws for each.
You will need an assistant to re-install the bearing. Someone needs to hold the three pieces behind the drum as you insert the three screws. You'll also need a star wrench set for this.
The drum is easily reinserted - just be careful to get the front of the drum placed into the front bearing surface when reinstalling the front panel. One word of caution, My wife tried to remove the felt bearing on the bottom of the front panel thinking that it was lint.
I found that the inside of my ten year old dryer was unbelievably full of lint. I'm sure that the efficiency improvements by cleaning the air passages will be substantial and I've just saved $400 on the price of a similar dryer ($900 if my wife and I decided to upgrade to the "new" model that we wanted but really didn't need.
Drum was misaligned and scraping againt the appliance housing due to worn-out slides.
Replaced the drum slides 2 - white, 2 - black. Replaced the slide housing (front drum bearing?). This part was worn due to worn-out slides that were missing.
Cleaned out old lint from rear of drum and appliance housing. Put new weather stripping seals on the lint catch exhaust. Checked drum belt for cracks and checking.
Buttoned everything back up and dryer works as good as new. $60.00 for parts, 1 hour labor and the job was done!
All I neede to do was buy the new part and snap it into place on the door. The hardest part was making the door usable while waiting for a new handle. The solution was good old duct tape. I just taped the old broken handle in place until the new one showed up.
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt. Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
First thing I did was find out the model and serial #'s of the dryer. I went to a major store to see if they had the part, found out that it had to be ordered and mailed to me. I decided to do it myself, I found your website and I ordered the part. I saved $10.00 by doing this. The part was very easy to remove and install. I just had to remove a small clamp that held the part on to the machine and make sure the 3 wires were secured after I installed the new part. Thank you!
Removed top - 2 screws. 2 more and the front comes off. I left the wires connected, and leaned the front against the wall. I then popped the drum bearing, with the slides off of the front, and pulled the felt from the lower half. I took some extra time cleaning lint with a shop vac. I then assembled the new parts back onto the front, and pulled the felt into position - it was a little fussy getting it right. The front panel and the top go back, and it`s done. I am glad I ordered the drum bearing, as the felt was worn much more than I would have guessed. This job could probably be done in 15 minutes next time, not including lint clean-up.
I removed several torx srews across the back control panel. Removed two philips screws under top of front dryer door. Pulled up on top surface of dryer case. Removed two more screws on backside of front door panel. Pulled front door panel forward and inserted drum slides into slots that they just popped into with a small button rod to keep them in place. The old drum slides were completely worn down or fell off. It runs like a new one again. It is over 10 years old. The new door handle just snapped into place. Original door handle had been broken off for several years.
First I watched the repair video on partselect.com and that really helped. It was really easy to replace the slides. I even ordered a new top bearing, old one was busted, and replaced it. Thank you for your help.
Unplugged the dryer. Removed the 4 star headed screws with a screwdriver. Tilted the console forward and lifted. I didn't have to slide mine to the right. Pulled the knob straight off the front of the console. Lifted the lock tab with the needle nose pliers and twisted the switch to the right. It popped right out. Pulled the wires off with the pliers. Be aware, there are three wires, two red and one black. The both red wires only connect to one terminal on the switch. It looked at first glance as if I had the wrong part. But those two wires are connected to each other so it was correct. Plugged those wires back on. Put the switch into the hole and twisted it back into place, the lock clicked in to place. Replaced the console and plugged it back in and it worked perfectly. Turned right on. This took me under 15 minutes to do. Steve is the man! This girl has been able to use his videos to repair the dryer 3 times, the washer once, and my dishwasher 3 times over the years!!
