The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the light bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
Microwave worked intermittently depending on how door was closed
Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and also took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!
The metal screen in the door of my microwave was rusting and making my "window" look nasty. I was able to take apart the door w/o removing the microwave, peel off the old plastic seal and clean the nasty parts of the glass door. The rust still remains and may be a future problem. But for now, the cleaning was what the door needed and applying the new film was a simple as putting stickers on a gift bag.
FIrst I removed the glass bulb cover, old bulbs, and old filters. Then I removed the 6 screws that held the lower cover in place, and bulb sockets. Then washed all parts an reassembled with new bulbs and filters.
It was a piece of cake....slid filters down and out, replace with new filters, slid down filter openings slightly and pulled filter up in to place. Done in less than one minute.
1. removed vent across the top to gain excess to Screw holding control in place. 2. Removed control panel to access Fuse. 3. Remover fuse after pulling plug. 4.Tested fuse for continuity with volt ohm meter noting no continuity.5. Orderd new fuse. 6. receeived new fuse and installed infuse holder.7. plugged microwave plug back in receptical and tested unit now working OK.Reversed steps 2 & 1 job complete
removed two screws,lowered the glass shield,removed the burned out bulb and replaced it with the new one. I ordered the bulb from parts select and recieved it two days later. It was a pleasure to deal with them, and certainly use them again.
I had some difficulty removing the glass plate because of the awkward (upside down) position of the screw that retained it. After replacing the burned out bulbs and replacig the glass plate the problem of replacing the screw involved my dropping the thing several times before I got the screw threads to catch. I got a screw thread to catch enough to hold the glass plate in position and left it at that.
The hard part was trying to find the light bulb locally. The locally sold light bulbs were either too long, not dual element or not powerful enough. So I ordered the light bulb straight from PartSelect. When it came time to install the new light bulb I carefully removed the screw holding the plate in position so as not to loose it in my gas stove. I needed the mirror to line up the light bulb and screw it in. Once it was in I verified operation and closed up the plate being careful not to drop the screw into my gas stove. Problem solved.
Close the door on the microwave, punch in the # nothing happened
I removed the unit from the wall. Took the cover off. Set the unit on its side. It revealed the working parts. Removed the old micro switches. Put in the new oness. Presto, it worked. Very easy for me. The parts was delivered almost before my notice they were shipped.
Fan motor and magnetron did not come on, but every thing else did.
Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.
1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.