MER6772BAW Maytag Range - Instructions

1. Turned off the power supply first!
2. Unscrewed the element brackets at the back of the oven.
3. Unscrewed the bracket holding it to the top of the oven.
4. Pulled off the crimp-on leads from the ends.
5. Because you have to stick both arms all the way into the oven to manipulate the leads, I found it easier to move the oven away from the wall and unscrew the back panel. I could then push the ends of the broiler element through the back and make all the connections from back there. Then I pushed the new element back into the oven and reattached all the screws in reverse order.

removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

flipped off breaker
Pulled the stove from the wall about 2 feet
Removed back cover (4 screws)
looked at existing switch - it was different than the new switch, but the instructions were spot on for the retrofit
I marked the back of the new switch with the retrofit locations of the wires
pulled off the knob
removed 2 screws from the front of the range that holds the switch
removed old wires using needle nose pliers
attached new switch re-using same 2 screws from the front
one at a time attached the wires to their proper location
pushed knob back on
reset the breaker
tested the new switch - all was OK
switched off breaker again
replaced the back cover
slid range back in place
Breaker back on
finished

removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover

Easy as pie
2 screws to loosen and 2 wires to connect on blades of element.

This job couldnt be easier. Just remember to SHUT THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON 220v stove.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

The door trim is held in place by five (5) screws. First I removed the two (2) side screws and then the three bottom screws. Be very careful because the trim holds the front glass panel in place. The repair can be made without removing the front door of the oven. Just remove the bottom drawer to get to the bottom three screws. Took approx. 15 to 20 minutes to complete. That's because I took the time to clean the inside of the glass panel. Really easy!

It's easy!!! I supervised my wife installing the element. She did great (probably because of my great supervision).

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.