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Burner was out but the burner coil worked on onother burner
Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.
oven getting 50 degrees or more, hotter than setting
As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory. Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal. Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
Turn off breaker. Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall. Removed front panel with switches attached. There are screws in front and back. Removed screws that hold switch in place. Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location. Reverse process for reassembly Gary in Ohio
I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account
Piece of cake! Took more time to find the screwdriver than it did to replace the element! Unplugged the stove. Removed 2 screws. Pulled the element out about 2" and disconnected the wires on each end (wires are attached to a metal clip that just pushes on to the end of the element. Threw the old element away. Unpacked the new elements. Connected the wires at each end. Pushed element into place and screwed in 2 screws. Plugged oven/stove back in and voila! That's it!
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)
Replacing the sensor kit and door gasket was no problem at all, however the baking element was A different story. The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance win and so did I. Oven now works great
Unplugged the unit. Removed the back of the range and disconnected the top element connectors. Then removed the screws holding top element from inside the range. I did not remove the bottom rack so that my arm could rest on that rather than risk hitting the bottom element. Removed the top element and inserted new element. Placed the front bracket to hold element in place and tightend the two screws holding the element to the back of the range. Then reattached the connecting wires, replaced the back panel. Then completed attaching the braces holding element to top of range. Did not tighten braces until all screws had been started.
Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.
Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
glass pane was cracked during the cleaning process
needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks
Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00 Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine. Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
