Models > MEDB800VQ0 > Symptoms > Too hot

Parts That Fix Maytag Dryer MEDB800VQ0 Too hot

Too hot is a commonly reported symptom for the MEDB800VQ0 Maytag Dryer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your MEDB800VQ0 Maytag Dryer that will fix Too hot. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

1 Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Fixes Symptom 56% of time
Thermostat, Internal-Bias – Part Number: WP8577274
★★★★★
★★★★★
30 Reviews

Rated by 30 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The internal-bias thermistor (Thermistor, Dryer Thermister, Dryer Thermistor) prevents the dryer from overheating by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. It is located on the blower housing, next to the thermal fuse. If your thermistor is defective, drying time could be prolonged or you could get a fault code. You could also notice your dryer overheating. You can test the outlet thermistor on a multimeter, it should read 10Kohms (10,000 ohms) of resistance at room temperature. It can tolerate 10% fluctuation. If your reading indicates the part is defective, it will need to be replaced. This model is white plastic. It is sold individually.

$ 47.74
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746740
Manufacturer Part Number WP8577274

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Replacing your Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
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  • Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!
  • Jim from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
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2 High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Fixes Symptom 21% of time
High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit – Part Number: 279973
★★★★★
★★★★★
21 Reviews

Rated by 12 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.

$ 53.28
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334387
Manufacturer Part Number 279973

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Replacing your High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer not heating

Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.
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  • Stephen from Andalusia, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
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  • John from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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3 Moisture Sensor
Fixes Symptom 8% of time
Moisture Sensor – Part Number: WP3387223
★★★★★
★★★★★
13 Reviews

Rated by 5 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This is the moisture sensor for your dryer. It helps detect the amount of moisture in your clothes during the dryer cycle. If you notice your clothes are still wet after an automatic dryer cycle is done, you may need to replace the sensor. You will find the moisture sensor behind the lint screen. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair. Note: Some model's require two sensors, please order quantity needed. Sensor only, harness is not included. This part is sold individually.

$ 10.72
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741408
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387223

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Moisture Sensor

Replacing your Moisture Sensor

Customer Repair Stories

Hard to reach the screws inside the dryer They were on the door side of the dryer and hard to reach, especially if you are a abig guy.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.
  • Lucy from CHADDS FORD, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Moisture sensors need replacement

Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
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  • Jack from JONESBORO, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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4 High Limit Thermostat
Fixes Symptom 7% of time
High Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP8557403
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 3 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This authentic OEM high limit thermostat is made for your dryer. It is an important dyer element, because it will automatically shut off the heating element when it overheats. Be sure to disconnect the power to your dryer before you begin this repair.

$ 97.00
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746386
Manufacturer Part Number WP8557403
5 Dryer Heater Element
Fixes Symptom 7% of time
Dryer Heater Element – Part Number: WP8544771
★★★★★
★★★★★
46 Reviews

Rated by 17 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

$ 131.52
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746337
Manufacturer Part Number WP8544771

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Heater Element

Replacing your Dryer Heater Element

Customer Repair Stories

Heater Element bad.

Followed video step by step. Perfect instructions. I’d only add that you should get and wear mechanics gloves. My hands got torn up by the sharp metal edges taking apart and putting it back together. Ouch!!
So happy with Partselect though. Super fast shipping and a perfect instructional video. Thanks!!

P.S. Wear gloves!!!
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  • Christian from JOHNSTON, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Had to replace heating element broken coil

Remove bottom panel was able to remove the element from the bottom without taking off the whole front and removing the drum simply remove the panel remove the two wires connected to the coil unbolted the bracket that was held on by two small bolts then removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket together was able to remove the heating element and then put everything back together did not have to remove the drum the top or the back panel To complete the repair I am not an appliance repair technician just a homeowner but I was still able to repair this myself and it’s working just fine
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  • Carter from NORFOLK, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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