Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Annoying loud metal to metal screeching noise.
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
Old. Original heat seal was deteriorated and peeling off. Streaks were getting on the clothes.
Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.
This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side. Instructions: 1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor. Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer & screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn. 2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level. 3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position. 4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment. 5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.
I ordered this to repair my girlfriend's mother's dryer. But according to my luck, the day the part was to arrive, I suffered an small brain bleed that put me in the hospital for a couple of weeks. I had read the instructions and was able to explain it to my girlfriend who replaced it and got it all back going right!
I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.
The lint filter needed replacement due to what is probably normal wear and tear.
I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.
I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.
First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!
dryer would not come on, light still worked, timer still ran
I removed the back of the dryer, removed the single screw holding the fuse in place and checked it for continuity. It didn't work, so I placed an order and 3 days later I was back in business. the replacement took about five minutes.
removed cover then pulled wires with a plier, unscrewed the fuse and installed new fuse then put back cover plugged in power cord, fired dyer and run dryer for 2 minutes and felt warm air coming out of the exhaust.
I guess you could say I went through the process of elemanation, first I replased the thermostat,removed 2 screws pulled off 3 wired with a pair of pliers put them on the new one, still no hot air so I replaced the fuse, took out 1 screw removed 2 wires and placed them on the new fuse, still no hot air, finally I replaced the thermal cut-off switch and WOW that was it hot air was blowing again, the process was very easy I ordered everything from parts slect and they were here the next day, only had to take the back off the dryer with a nut wrench, locate the thernastat, fuse and thermal cut-off which was just above the heating coil I removed 1 screw pulled off 2 wires and place them on the new one. very easy and the repair storys really helped locating the problem
The problem was the dryer wouldn't heat up (gas). Would run but just not heat up.
So I opened the back up, and looked down the flame shoot and I could see that the igniter was never glowing red. (You can actually see the red glow of the igniter when its working right, then you here the solonoid click and flame. But again all this when its working correctly.) So anyway, no heat no glowing red.
I took the voltmeter out, grounded 1 lead and just followed the voltage (using the schematic provided), through the switches, yada yada trying to trace how far it got.
Voltage got to 1 side of thermal fuse, but not to other side. Bingo. Disconnected fuse and did continuity check - open. All of this took diagnosing took 1/2 hour to hour. Not really counting toward fix. Ordered the part at parts select. Put a jumper over the fuse so that clothes could still be dried (probably not recommended but it works). Part arrived in 2 days. Didn't even put the back panel on.
The part is right on the back. 1 screw, 2 space terminals. Takes all of 3 minutes to replace. Then another 5 minutes to put the back panel on and vent hose back on. Most of that is because you are working in a cramped space. (I don't have the biggest laundry room.)
Can't beat parts select!
Parts select + a little know how, saved me about $400.
this was a super easy job! i unplugged the dryer, removed the back panel, located the fuse on the bottom left side, replaced it, put the panel back on, plugged it back in and IT WORKED! this was the first appliance repair job for me and i am so glad i found this site. it probably saved me $100.00 or so doing it myself. thank you!!!
The dryer wouldn't turn on after pushing the start button
I watched the video several times before beginning, which was very helpful. As I didn't have the tool that was recommended in the video, I used pliers, which although took longer, worked out fine. I also used pliers to pull the wires off of the old thermal fuse. My dryer had been not working for 2 months, so I was very pleased that I was able to watch a very detailed video, order the parts on the same website, and receive them very quickly (within couple of days.) My daughter who lives in another state googled my dryer model number with a description of the problem and found your website. She sent me the link of the video to watch as it appeared very easy to understand. She and I both were very impressed by the step-by-step instructions on the video, including a list of all the tools required. I am an 81 year old woman and had no problems fixing this by myself with the assistance of your website. I have recommended this site to several of many friends and family members. Thank you!
