MDB9750AWQ Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

1.Turn of electric
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Remove scres for interior door cover
4. Lift and move the interior door cover to right
5. Use Pliers to pull off connectors of Latch
6. Use Pliers to attach replacement latch
7. Lay interior door cover back on door and line up with screw holes. Make sure you have the bottom lip over the bottom of exterior door by hinges. Bottom lip goes inside the dishwasher.
8. Put back in screws - not all the way and tighten snug (do not over tighen) once all are in place.
9. turn on power.
10. Done!

30 Minutes tops!

Inside the Dishwasher on the bottom of unit, I removed the dish cart. The removed the sprayer arm with an adjustable wrench on the plastic nut on the center top. Then removed the top three screws with a Torx 20 screw driver and removed the plastic cover, then removed the single screw above the black plastic water pump piece and took it off. Then removed the six additional screws that were then displated after the previous cover was exposed. Finally I unscrewed the ivory colored plastic shaft which holds the food processor blade from the metal motor shaft with a adjustable wrench. Upon inspecting the ivory plastic shaft I noticed that the threads were stripped inside it. Which means it didn't turn when the motor would turn and wouldn't drive the water pump.

I ordered the replacements and noticed that the replacement for the plastic ivory colored shaft was a metal shaft. It had new pieces as the food processor blade had notiches in new places. The kid had all the replacement parts and a good set of instructions for what to replace and where it would go.

Then I assembled the washer as I had taken it apart. And it worked perfectly the first time. It has been repaired and working for a few weeks now without incident.

Most of the time was spent pulling out the dishwasher from under the counter, as a new tile floor had been installed after the DW was installed.

Great pictures of components on this website confirmed what part to order.

Shut off water feed to DW and disconnect power to DW.

Unplug wire connector to old valve (solenoid) and disconnect water inlet hose. Observe that valve is attached to sheet metal bracket.

Remove bracket, with valve attached. Don't remove valve from bracket. New valve comes with sheet metal bracket.

Remove female threaded adaptor (brass) from back of old valve and screw on to new valve using Teflon tape. That is the only piece you need to reuse.

Attached the new bracket (with valve attached) to DW. Attach water inlet hose. Attach plug to new valve.

Turn on water to DW. Check for leaks. Retighten hose connection if required. Run dishwasher. Keep lower panel off for a couple of days to be certain no leaks develop.

Ordered the part easily using model number and schematic on web site. Part came in two days. Unfortunately, they had the right part number but the wrong part was pulled and sent to me. I called and they resolved the issue over the phone and sent me the right part in two days. Part snapped right on in 5 seconds and I was back washing my dishes that evening.

Had this problem before and the part was simply a plastic latch which cost less than 5 dollars. That part has been discontinued and the latch is now the entire assembly. Although the part costs more, the repair is much simpler. Remove the screws from the inside of the door. Have to use hex nut screwdriver. Remove the panel and the assembly is right at the top. Unhook the assembly from the two (2) prongs. TURN OFF the electricity or touching the prong will bite you. Had to pry the latches off the prongs with a screwdriver as the fit is tight. Latch the new assembly on and rescrew the door panel and the job is done. Very easy and cheaper than a repairman coming out and charging $150.00

Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!

Snapped on new wheels

First I removed the Torx screws holding on the door cover (two of these screws also hold the latch assembly). You don't need to completely remove the cover but just keep it slightly separated by hand as you do the work. I attempted to remove the connections to the two switches on the latch assembly but this proved to be very difficult even after applying lubricant so I changed my approach. Since only the latch handle was broken I decided to remove the two switches from the existing latch assembly and attach them to the new latch assembly rather than disconnecting the wiring harness. There are two clips holding each of the switches and by pulling them back you can remove the switch. After this was done I was ready to put in the new latch assembly. I removed the two switches off the new latch assembly and have kept them in case a switch happens to fail in the future. I placed the new latch assembly into the dishwasher door and then pushed the wiring harness (with the old switches attached) into the new latch assembly. Take note that there is a "detent" in the switch that must be pushed in as you slide the switch into place or otherwise it won't seat properly. After putting the two switches back in place I closed the cover and tightened the two screws that hold the latch assembly first and then tightened the remainder of the screws. It took a full 30 minutes but that included changing my approach after the harness wouldn't separate easily from the switches.

The repair stories on PartSelect.com told me exactly what to do.

First, I checked the inside of the door and confirmed that the inside panel of the door was held in place with about 10 torx screws.

Second, I went out and bought a set of torx screwdrivers.

Third, I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE DISHWASHER AT THE BREAKER BOX! Safety first!

Fourth, I removed the screws and gently lifted the inside panel of the door, and then gently lifted the broken door latch assembly out of its slot. (There were no more screws to remove, because the latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws.) Two sets of wires, one white and the other black, were connected to the latch assembly by plug-in connectors.

Fifth, I unplugged the wires from the broken latch assembly. The clips in the plug were very tight, so I used a dishtowel to hold onto the latch assembly. I found that gave me a better grip.

Sixth, I plugged the wires onto the new latch assembly, and then slipped the latch assembly back into the slot.

Seventh, I replaced the inside door panel, and replaced in the 10 torx screws.

Finally, I turned on the power at the breaker box, closed the door, and turned on the dishwasher. It ran perfectly!

I would like tyo add that I had ordered an unnecessary part by mistake. I called the return number, and the person who answered was extremely helpful. She gave me the return authorization number and I put the part in the mail. Ten days later, I received an email from PartSelect.com confirming that the part had arrived and that my account had been credited.

The entire process was easy and pleasant. Anybody can do this! Just make sure to shut off the power at the breaker box before you start on the job.

These parts snap in and out by hand, except the flatware basket of course. After getting the new parts I will mention two things: 1) the two halves of the flatware basket are symmetrical; i.e., you can use two of either basket PN as long as you don't care about how the basket is divided (one side has two sections and the other has three); 2) the replacement parts seem to be made of stronger/more flexible plastic (either the material degrades over time from the heat and detergent, or maytag had enough early product life warranty claims on the pastic bits that they improved the material).

Stuck new wheel on, time to find and order part on partselect 2 min, time to open package and install part 1 min.

Total job 3min.

The web site was great in finding the part that was required. Once the parts was received ( it took four days to et the part ths was very fast) it took only 30 mins. to complete the repair. I had to remove all the screw on the door, lift up the inside door cover and remove the handle latch assembly. I removed the two mico switches from the old handle and installed them into the new handle. I replaced the new assembly and replaced the inside door cover and replaced the screws. This was a very easy repair.
I had called a local repair shop to see what it would cost to repait the dishwasher. They told me that it would cost $60.00 to come to the house to see what was wrong with the unit. Next they would charge $75 per hour (minimum of $75 if it was less than one hour of repair time) for the repair plus the parts. THis repair cost me less than $30 plus 30 minutes of my time. Great savings

First I removed the lower spray arm by removing the middle retainer nut. Next remove the 3 screws holding the outer shroud in place. Next remove 6 screws holding the water pump top housing in place. Under this housing you will find the impeller which is retained by a screw. Check the impeller closely for cracks especially near the center hex portion of the impeller. Replace if you have any doubt of it's integrity. Next remove the lower pump housing that has the screen material in the center. What I found was the nylon part that attaches to the shaft of the motor was stripped so the impeller would spin in it's normal direction ( counterclockwise) but under the load of water it would not. So I ordered a new impeller and seal kit with a metal sleeve and chooper blade. Follow the instructions provided in the new kit a reassemble accordingly.

The fold away pivots assebly is held in place by spring energy from the rack it is clipped into. It kept coming unclipped so I taped one in place to hold it to the rack and then positioned the other clip. Glad I ordered 2 new clips because the surviviing original clip broke easily. I'll never fold it away again.

The wheel assembly was the reverse of removal and took a matter of seconds.

I had to remove the 4 screws holding the toe panel. Then I had to take out the one screw holding the floater switch housing in place. It snapped open to release the floater and that just lifted out. I put the new float in and snapped the new housing on. I put the screw back in to hold the housing in place attached the two wires to the switch and put the toe panel back on. It was all very easy to do and my first home repair went very well. thank you.