MDB9150AWS Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

purchased disk rack was complete exept for the water diffuser in the middle of the rack. Merely pulled to old rack out with no tools, twisted out the diffuser and tweisted in to the new rack.

No tools or instructions required.

I first removed both lower front shields,(4 screws)
I then shut off water supply to inlet valve from hot water supply. I removed the water hose from inlet valve,two electrical terminals,( I put tape on right side terminal and lettered with an R as not to mix up the two terminals)removed the hose clamp,removed valve from frame.I reinstalled in reverse procedure.I turned the water back on and checked for leaks.I started the normal cycle and water flowed into the dishwasher as designed.

The rack assembly was not altogether assembled. Had to remove one part from the old one and reassemble on the new. Also, The racks that make place for a bowl instead of plates was not assembled.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

Although the (top) dishrack assembly included the nylon wheeles, it was easier to replace the old one by disengaging it from its wheels and installing the new rack on the old wheels kept in the slider track. The snap hook that held each wheel to the old rack was popped loose (finger pressure) and the old rack removed. The new rack was held in place and each of the four wheels snapped to it. Each wheel fits into a wire post on the basket and the plastic hook snaps onto the wire frame. The most difficult part of the 'repair' was removal of the handle from the old silver ware basket. I used screwdrivers to simultaneously pry the four tabs of the halde out of the slots on the basket and pulled (hard!) the handle off. It snapped easily into place on the new basket.

Turned off water at valve, removed float switch, removed water inlet vlv. Replaced and reassembled. Still not water going into the machine. I have no voltage to the valve or float switch. I then took the door apart to find there were burnt wires as well as a burn mark on the control panel. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the door seal has failed and water got into the door. Had to replace dishwasher with a new one.

Initially I suspected something had found its way to the impeller or the macerator, began to disassemble top down. Upon removal of the discharge it was apparent the plastic disc at the top of the discharge was sheared off. Located the schematic at PartSelect and ordered the discharge. Received part within 3 business days and installed new discharge in about 30 minutes. Required 5/16 socket and hex head driver. Recommend ordering new gasket with part.

The lower spray arm of this model has a chronic problem with the plastic seams splitting and the horizontal blast causing door leaks. This was the third spray arm replaced on this unit. Rather than simply replacing the spray arm with the OEM device purchased, I used a solder gun to reweld the seam on the spray arm. I expect that the additional welding will provide many more years of service than the OEM replacement part. They should really improve the quality of the replacement part to prevent splitting. A metal replacement would be worth $50 and provide a better repair than the plastic arm.

I undid the four clips that attach the upper dish rack to the dishwasher. The upper arm simply unscrews from the top of the dishwasher. Unsnap clip that holds arm and remove arm. Installation is the reverse of removal.

It is such an easy snap-on repair that a child could do it. I am grateful that your company had a picture so I could compare my broken part with the ones you guys have as I couldn't find my model number. I took my time to do the job right, so it took me almost 15 seconds! lol

Dish rack not same as original. No raised section on right for drop down ledge. Also the old rack had a section for wide rim bowls. New one is for plates only. Otherwise it is OK

I followed the you tube video exactly. Very easy to do. I did not tighten the screws sequentially as shown in the video, rather I did the opposite ones to make sure nothing was skewed. Very easy, about 20 minutes.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

I figured it had to be either the motor or control panel so I gambled that it was the control since it had been draining but stopping midway through the cycle.
Removing the inner door panel was a piece of cake. When a small electronic part rolled out to meet me as I removed the panel, I was pretty sure that I'd found the problem. I simply disconnected the wiring, taking care to notice the arrangement and plugged in the new unit. Then I gently tightened the mounting screws, and replaced the door panel, being careful not to twist as I tightened it. The old girl fired right up!