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One of the wheels broke that holds the rack up.
I unscrewed the old rack adjuster assembly and screwed the new one on (this was after I took the rack out of the diswasher) -- I actually saved one of the old intact plastic wheels for future repairs.
Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.
Dishwasher filled normally with water and seemed to be cycling normally, but after cycle complete, no washing had occurred.
I first listened carefully and noticed that during cycling, the electric motors could be heard starting, stopping, and apparently running normally during both wash and emptying cycles. However, no water was being pumped around during the wash cycles, while emptying (which uses a different motor) worked normally throughout all cycles. Thus it seemed to me that the electronic programming was working correctly in turning both motors on and off as necessary. So I figured somehow the wash motor impella was not turning and pumping water, despite the fact that the motor was indeed running correctly. So I removed all the plastic housings, the screwed on impella, and the metal chopper at the base of dishwasher. Then I was able to easily pry the old plastic chopper sleeve right off of the electric motor shaft (normally it is screwed on and cannot be pryed off). Since the plastic threads inside the chopper sleeve were completely stripped, the motor shaft would turn but the impella would slip on the shaft and not be driven. The replacement sleeve was much better constructed (metal not plastic). It could be easily screwed on to the motor's driveshaft after lifting the old rubber seal and gently holding the motor shaft with a pliers (carefull to avoid scratching the shaft). I removed the old rubber seal nd replaced it with the new one from the kit, right over the newly installed metal chopper sleeve. Next, I easily centered the metal chopper sleeve and pressed in the new seal after reinstalling the plastic/metal chopper screen, using the temporary jig included in the kit. Then the jig was discarded and the impella simply screwed onto the chopper sleeve (using the appropriately threaded hold-down screw provided in the kit). Finally, the rest of the plastic hardware is screwed in place. Waahhlaa...now impella is motor driven again and blows water hard into the dishwasher during the wash and rinse cycles. Total cost of job to do-it-yourself, $29.50 including shipping (which only took three working days). Estimated job if down by appliance repairman, $140 (assuming the repairman didn't first erroneously blame the problem on faulty electronics then charge you hundreds of $$'s to replace circuits which were not broken to begin with, only to find the dishwasher still not washing/rinsing after his expensive electronic circuit replacements. The actually mechanical fix was cheap and simple. Truthfully, there is no excuse for Jenn Aire to ever use a plastic Chopper Sleeve in their dishwashers to begin with.......carefully planned obsolesence if you ask me. Oh well, it works perfect now. I doubt if even the four marbles my 4 year old had tried earlier to wash in my dishwasher (stripping out the original chopper sleeve) would do any damage to the metal replacement. However, I don't plan on testing my hunch. A simple fix, but a slightly challenging diagnosis which relied on a keen sense of hearing and a quiet workplace. Seems many people in these blogs have had the very same problem with their Jenn Air/Maytag dishwashers, and have made the same diagnosis and the same simple fix. Thank you mucho, PartSelect.
Unplug the power cable. Remove 11 torx fasteners holding the inner door panel. Remove two sets of wires from old opener and install the new door opener assembly. Replace all the screws. About 10 minutes with a power driver.
Initially ordered the rack adjuster assembly, not realizing that I would also need the adjuster lever and adjuster cover, too. This piece is NOT what originally came with our unit. The line drawing for part 17 shows what our unit looks like. That part has apparently been discontinued and we were guided by Maytag to order this substitution, which is actually a Whirlpool part. Thought someone else might want to know this if they happen to have the same series of Maytag DW as we do. It fits well onto the rack, however, the location of the wheels on the unit are different than the original which means that the middle rack now slides out of the dishwasher about 3" less than it used to, which is kind of a bummer. All that said, the repair was a piece of cake and the hubs on the wheels are now metal instead of the original plastic. . .I expect this part to last a good long while!
I noticed that the dishes on the top rack were not getting clean. While the dishwasher was running, I opened the door to see if the arms were moving/spraying and they were not. I cleaned the filter and checked the impeller and both were clean and not damaged. After looking how the top rack slides into the "flapper" I took it off to inspect it. It was missing the rubber to make the seal with the tube from the top rack. After replacing this part, the dishwasher is cleaning like new. Here is the part PS2340934 Docking Station with Flappers
Spent 1 hr following video. Difficulty was taking part apart & attaching new latch handle to latch assembly. Called PS tel support & spoke w/Breanna who was patient & tried her best to coach me. Sent photos to her via email to show what part looked like. Her boss discovered latch was attached upside down. Tried very hard to reattach in the correct direction. To no avail. Was advised to call Whirlpool tech. Instead, contacted handyman to complete repair.
Who ever assembled the parts for shipment, put the latch on backwards and it was extremely hard to take the latch off of the main part. Now matter how hard I tried, I was unable to re-attach the latch until I used a file on the plastic insert to file off the inside edges until they fit. It does work now, but it could have been made much easier if they had simply positioned the latch in the correct position in the first place.
I would not have figured it out had I not viewed the video on installing the latch assembly. The latch must be in the LOCK POSITION before installing. It would help if the latch was in the LOCKED position before shipment.
Remove all interior door panel screws with a torx head screwdriver (drill). Pull the interior panel up from the door far enough to access the switch assembly. Pull it out and remove the 2 electrical connectors from the old switch (using a small screw driver as a pry bar if needed). Remove the old switch and handle (that may be broken off and still in the door). Push the electrical connectors onto the new switch assembly, making sure the handle is down toward the opening and the connectors are on the same side as they came off of the old switch. Align the mounting screw holes of the switch with the threaded holes on either side of the switch. Push the interior panel back together and align the two holes with the switch holes (those 2 screws go through the door panel and the switch assembly). Replace the remaining interior panel screws. Done!
spring on one side of door broke, door became heavy and wouldn't stay up
Unscrewed dishwasher from counter and pulled it out from under the counter a few inches. Looked at the side of the dishwasher with the remaining good spring and saw how it was attached: One end was hooked to a little tether strung around a pulley, the other to one of a few steel slots. Copied that side for the new spring and works fine now.
from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.
