MDB6658AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

First I did the top - getting the ends off the track is simple, flip the ends "open" like a book on each side, and remove the caps. Pull out the rack, replace with the new one and replace the caps. Bottom rack was easier once I figured out how to remove the spray tower. Grab it firmly and twist. Place it in the new rack, and roll it into the DW. I'm a fairly handy woman, and this was quite easy.

1) turned off power to dishwasher
2) removed each piece of pump assembly (one at a time) from inside the dishwasher. I had no repair manual and didn't know that by rotating the lock lever under the dishwasher, I could have easily removed the entire pump assembly as a unit.
3) Reassmebled the pump assembly using new parts and installed in dishwasher.
4) Reconnected hoses and electrical connection
5) Turned power back on
6) Washed dishes... it's as good as new!!!!

With a straight edge screwdriver I carefully removed the plastic end caps on the rack support glider-shelves, replaced the old rack with the new rack, and then reattached the end caps.

I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.

Old rack assembly was rolled out , the plastic water disperser was twisted off of the old rack and placed on the new rack assembly. The new rack was rolled into place. Project complete.

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

Using the part list (on your web site)as a guide to remove the parts,Part 32 remove by hand turning counter clockwise,remove screws #5,remove parts(33,34,31,2).
Remove #36 remove 4,3,,6,7,,8,9,remove screws#27 then remove #11 which has a plate part of it but broke on the underside (you can't see it in the picture)it will rub on the fins of part#14 during the cycle when dishes are being washed creating a grinding noise.
i Do suggest to replace the seals,38,37,you may coat the new seals with liquid hand soap for easier installation.

First I installed the spray diverter,then I installed the discharge housing nut and tightened it down. Last I snapped on the spray diverter cap.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

Most difficult was figuring out how to release the top rack...just flip the end pieces to the side and out they come. Next was removing and reinserting the spray head in the bottom rack...just twist and take out then align and twist into place in the new rack.

The only tricky part was fixed by reading another post on this website -- removing the plastic endcaps on the steel sliding brackets. This is a necessary step before replacing the wheels because the bracket needs to slide between two fully installed wheels.

To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.

The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.

1. Removed 4 screws holding latch and controls module to the door.

2. Went back to your site to check how to get the control module to come loose from the door. I gave it a good upward hit with my hand and it came off. There was wiring that prevented the module from coming completely free. But there was enough room to get to the latch.

3. Used a screwdriver to fish out the broken latch parts.

4. Inserted the new latch and gave it a tap to spring the pivot pins into place.

5. Replaced the 4 screws that hold the latch and control module to the door. Job done.

Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help