LW8413L2 (PLW8413L2 A) Amana Washer - Instructions

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.

Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !

Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... persuasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.

Removed the tension spring from the belt retention belt, removed the belt from the large pulley in the back of the washer, removed the 4 bolts holding in the motor and washer pump, removed wiring harness, disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and pulled out the motor and the washer pump. Turned the motor over and using the Torx driver (#20) removed the 3 bolts holding on the pump. Gently wiggled and pried the washer pump off of the motor, replaced the pump and tightened down the Torx bolts carefully so the pump didn't crack or break it is just plastic, but had to be sure the pump was seated tightly so the pump would fit back into place and also so it wouldn't leak, after making sure it was tightly attached I reversed the process to put it back together.

Be sure to shut the water off before doing anything and to drain as much water from the drum/hoses as best as possible!!! The repair was straightforward. I took the front panel off by removing 2 screws located at the bottom and angling the bottom away from the housing until I could pull down on the front panel to free it from the tension clips holding the top part of the front panel in place. This exposes the motor which is easily accessible at the front of the washer. Before doing anything you need to get the remaining water out of the drum and hoses. Best advice I can give is to have plenty of towels laid down to catch the water I have linoleum so this wasn't too bad but if on carpet you need to place the washer over the towels to catch the water and there is a significant amount even though none was seen in the tub/drum or hoses. After draining out the water. Before removing screws you need to remove the drive belt by moving the pulley so that the tension on the belt is relaxed so you can remove the belt by slipping it off the motor pulley and drum in a downward direction. Once the belt is off you can removed the four screws to the motor. disconnect the hose from the washer pump. slide the entire assembly out. you can now work freely with the motor away from the washer. My motor was seized up complete as I could not turn the shaft at all (thus the burning smell). Since I ordered just the motor and v-style drive belt, I needed to remove part of the sheet metal housing to get the washer pump which was still good off the bad motor and onto the new motor. I just reversed the process to put it all back together which is easier because you don't have to worry about draining any water!! My advice is if you are changing the motor replace the belt as well (I did - mine was severely frayed and cracked) since its all exposed anyway. Total time was 1-2 hrs if taking your time.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

My neighbor did the repair for me and I believe the instructions sent were the reason he had no trouble installing it.

Removed the front panel, could see water leaking from the tub area near the shaft in the center of the machine. Dripping out once the water level reached the hub. Swing the top up, remove the large plastic ring at top of tub. remove the top of the agitor, pulls off easily. Remove the agitator with a firm pull up, not as easy but does come off. Removed the 4 bolt holding the tub. 2 broke off, but not to worry, the new kit has a complete hub. Pulled off the bell seal, pry up. Used an impact gun with 1-1/2" socket to remove the nut. The hub was frozen to the shaft. Tried a puller but ended up breaking the hub. I finally cut it off in pieces and pryed it off (the hardest part of job). Cleaned up the spline with a small file and patience. Installed the new seal kit. Ended up buying the M800 3M sealant on line. I went this far, another $40 for that. Fitted it all back up per instructions. No leaks. All good.

Put new motor in, and it did the same thing as old motor. Obviously, motor wasn't the problem. Looking for answers on what the problem could be.

remove motor and pump togather 4 bolts holding unhook two hose unplug electrial connector and slide out remove 3 screws holding pump to motor be aware of direction belt from moter to tub then place new pump back at same location as old pump replace motor with pump attached back to same location as begfor

Unplug the electrical cord. Remove the front cover with two screws at the bottom. Unhook the front two springs on the tub that secure it to the floor of the machine. Tilt the tub back as far as possible. Remove the electrical connector to the motor at the motor with the plastic tab release. Remove the four screws that attach the motor mount to the floor of the washer. Unhook the two hoses that attach to the pump on the motor bottom. Catch the water in a towel or in a flat tray. Unloop the belt from around the pulley on the bottom of the washer tub shaft and remove the motor, pump and belt as a unit. Remove the brake pads by removing the single bolt atop each one and pull it out of the machine. This will take the longest amount of time. You will have trouble getting the new pads in position, especially the one at the back. You many need to gently spread the brake disks to allow the pads to enter using a padded screw driver. Lightly lubricate the new brake pads before installing with silicone grease and replace the bolt and grommet with the new ones provided on each. Using a torx screwdriver, remove the pump from the motor and discard the worn belt. Remove the idler pulley using snap ring pliers and replace with a new one. Install the new belt and idler. Replace the pump with a new one, or reuse the old one if it seems in good repair and is not too old (mine was 15 years old--I replaced it). Remount the motor, pulley and belt on the machine and secure with 4 bolts--loop the belt around the main pulley on tub shaft. Reattach the hoses to the pump. Reconnect the electrical supply to the motor. Rehook the two spring to the front of the tub. Plug the washer back into the wall outlet. Pour in a couple of gallons of water into the tub before starting to ensure that the pump does not operate in a dry condition. Start and test operation. Be Happy. Wash hands and have a cold one.

You tubed this procedure and it took 20 min.

The new hose was exactly like the one I removed. It was simply a matter of putting the new hose through the back, replacing the hose clamp, take the piece off the old hose that makes the bend in the hose to go in the wall drain. Replace the lower front panel with two screws and I was done.