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The discharge pump wasleaking
I removed the 4 bolts that hold the drive motor in place, then tipped the motor on it's side and removed the 3 allen screws that hold the pump in place. Then just reversed the process.
pump was leaking and slotted end of drive was split
removed sheetmetal screws hilding motor bracket loosened hose clamps on both hoses and removed hoses., rmoved 3 screws holding the pump in and slid pump off of shaft. installation was reverse
water leaking not agitating and shaking in spin cycle
remove front panel. unplug motor. remove 4 screws and take motor,pump,idler and belt assembly out. remove pump from bottom of motor. 3 screws held pump and drove off with hammer. replace idler and install belt before new pump. install pump. reinstall assembly. works good now.
First I unscrewed the bottom of the front panel. Then I realized the front panel pulls off from the top. (manuals are helpful only if read!) I took the tub hose off at the tub and used my wet vac to remove all the excess water. (no towel needed) Using the appropriate size torx head bit, an extension and a small socket wrench to undo the screws holding the pump. I had to push and pull the bottom of the tub slightly to get proper room for the small socket wrench. pull the pump down and off. take the hoses off and place them on the new pump. reverse the process. tighten the clamps and replace the front cover.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Blanket jambed drum, belt kept turning burned belt and pump
Unpluged washer, turned off water supply, removed front covers, removed spring on right side to allow drum to lean over, removed the 2 hoses from pump, removed motor (4 bolts), removed 3 screws holding pump. Installed a new belt and replaced the pump. I replaced the hoses on the pump, replaced the spring, and turned on the water, plugged in the washer, turned it on and hoped for the best. Worked fine, no leaks or problems.
Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.
Wow! My husband and I researched the problem online and ordered the part after reading from others how to take the machine apart. We are very unhandy, so we felt quite an accomplishment fixing the drain hose with rubber elbow ourselves! Thank you for the diagrams that so clearly showed the part we needed to order.
piece of agitator broke off - unbalanced loads of laundry
We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task. Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so! It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.
Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.
remove front cover disconnect water supply remove hose clamp,take drain line replace with new hose reconnect water supply replace front cover job complete.
Agitator And Bell Housing Seperated From Drive Shaft
Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !
Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... persuasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.
Removed the tension spring from the belt retention belt, removed the belt from the large pulley in the back of the washer, removed the 4 bolts holding in the motor and washer pump, removed wiring harness, disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and pulled out the motor and the washer pump. Turned the motor over and using the Torx driver (#20) removed the 3 bolts holding on the pump. Gently wiggled and pried the washer pump off of the motor, replaced the pump and tightened down the Torx bolts carefully so the pump didn't crack or break it is just plastic, but had to be sure the pump was seated tightly so the pump would fit back into place and also so it wouldn't leak, after making sure it was tightly attached I reversed the process to put it back together.
