LW2603 (P1110504W W) Amana Washer - Instructions

took the drive belt to the pump off then put the belt for the drum on .then put the belt for pump back on. basickly this unit is one of the easist to work on

Taking the hub out was a promblem because, with a puller it did not come out. It broke off while pulling out we had to drill it
out had to brake off.You need a 1 1/2 inch deep socket with a impact wrench. It was a hassel but got done. I replaced the whole seal kit and it is still leaking it leaks from the bottom of the tub. It leaks worse when it has a heavy load I dont know what to do.Need help.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

It was easy, All we had to do was loosen up the tension on the pump, put the new belt back on and put the tension back on the pump motor by sliding it to the side and re tighten the screws to hold the pump tight.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Un plug machine. Turn off hot & cold water. Remove the front panel by removing the 2 screws at the botton & lift front from the bottom until it unhinges from the top. Tilt the washer back far enough to put a contaner to catch the water left in the hoses. Loosing the hose clamps so the water comes out slowly. If you remove the hose to fast your container won't catch the water. Do one hose at a time. Next disconnect the wiring harnes from the motor. Remove the 4 screws holding the pump/motor. Disconnect the belt from the washer. You will have to tilt the pump/motor to get slack in the belt. Remove the pump/motor & the belt will come with it. This is when I found that the belt was toast & I had to order a belt. Paid shipping twice. once for pump & once for belt. Seperate pump from motor by removing 3 screws. My pump came right off. Reverse the operation to install. REMEMBER TO PUT THE BELT ON BEFORE THE PUMP.

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

Removed the front panel, could see water leaking from the tub area near the shaft in the center of the machine. Dripping out once the water level reached the hub. Swing the top up, remove the large plastic ring at top of tub. remove the top of the agitor, pulls off easily. Remove the agitator with a firm pull up, not as easy but does come off. Removed the 4 bolt holding the tub. 2 broke off, but not to worry, the new kit has a complete hub. Pulled off the bell seal, pry up. Used an impact gun with 1-1/2" socket to remove the nut. The hub was frozen to the shaft. Tried a puller but ended up breaking the hub. I finally cut it off in pieces and pryed it off (the hardest part of job). Cleaned up the spline with a small file and patience. Installed the new seal kit. Ended up buying the M800 3M sealant on line. I went this far, another $40 for that. Fitted it all back up per instructions. No leaks. All good.

Turned off water & unpluged ac power. Removed 2 screws on front panel. Removed panel. Found peices of V belt. Removed 4 screws from electric motor which allowed the belt to come out. Ordered new belt on line. Received the item in one day. Reversed the above sequence above. Now the washer is running as good as new.

My Amana washing machine burned up a second belt in about three weeks. Prior to that, the spin cycle was very loud. Online research revealed the problem was most likely the hub bearing. I ordered a new bearing, belt and hub and seal kit. The repair is a difficult one as the parts have been on the tranmission shaft many years with the mounting corrosion and mineral build up. I was able to pull the agitator off with no problem. The drive bell would have been easier to pull had I used a gear puller but did not own one. I use two crow bars to lift it off the shaft and I knew I'd be replacing it anyway so was not concerned about damaging it although I didn't. The most difficult part to remove was the large hex nut. I didn't want to purchase the tool to remove it so I used an open end adjustable wrench adn a hammer to remove it. However it took many hours of soaking the nut in sprayed on WD-40 to loosen it. For a while I thought it wasn't going to budge. Oh and btw, the nut comes off counterclockwise on this model. This is important. Other makes of washers have left handed threads, requiring clockwise removal, but this one does not. The hub assembly was pulled using the crow bar method. Again, it was going to be replaced anyway. The lint filter was cleaned and reused. The remainder of the dissassembly went OK using the directions in the repair manual. http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677902/Amana-Top-Load-Washer-Service-Manual. Reassembly went fine using the repair manual accept that the new drive bell was much more difficult to drive onto the shaft than I thought it would be. I eventually got it on using my shop vac rigid tube to go around it and hammering on a block of wood placed on top of it. I also used this shop vac tube to seat the seal that goes on the shaft just before the drive bell. It was the perfect tool for it as I wasn't going to purchase the special tool suggested in the repair manual. I'd already purchased $185 in parts. The kits come with grease but not the anti seizure compound or the industrial sealant needed. The anti seisure compound can be purchased from an auto parts store. It's not expensive. The industrial sealant is expensive. After researching what it was and why it was needed, I took a chance on silicone sealant. I'm not suggesting it is a good substitute but my washer has not leaked after 5 loads. Plus the sealant is really a backup to the main seal that goes on the transmission shaft before the hub assembly. But I'm pleased overall with the parts and accompanying directions and the washer is working great, spinning quietly. This is not an easy repair. It takes patience and a place to work on it. Frankly, with other things to do as well as go to work, it took me four days to complete, mostly due to the difficulty in removing the large hex nut. It might be worth investing in the removal tool if you're unsuccessful using home tools. Good luck.

As another person commented, there is a small 'door' on the rear where the water inlet is located. Don't know if this was meant for easy access to change this part or not but I didn't use it. I found it much easier to just remove the front panel (2 lower corner screws), loosen the top (2 corner screws) and tilt it up and out of the way. From there it was easy to disconnect the hoses and four electrical plugs (easy to remember the order). The unit is held in place by one screw which is located between the water inlets.

First thing I did was to read the great information from other customers. John from Milton's post titled "frayed v belt" was excellent; so was Joseph from Goldsboro NC under the Pump part posts. I would add the following info which wasn't readily available. The Torx/starbit size mentioned in the posts referenced is a T25 the Amana lw8203w2 I have. I bought a t25 size torx wrench at my local hardware store for $2. I got everything together --the belt took some arm strength for an amateur like me to get on. Also, would recommend gloves as some of the edges are sharp down there. Everything appeared okay and when I started the spin cycle it started then cut off. I thought maybe besides the fan belt there was electronics faulty. However, I found an amana repair guide for my model online at scribd and under the troubleshooting section, it described the cutout of the spin cycle and if the new fan belt is too tight, it will bind and the spin cycle will cut out. So I opened up the front again and worked the belt for several turns to "stretch it" and voila, it worked perfectly.