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Mounting bracket broke
Remove the crisper drawer for room to work, locate the two mounting holes at the top, front of the shelf, insert the plastic hinge pin on the outside wall side. Holding the front(cover0 in one hand, reach under the cover with your other hand, grasp the second hinge pin and move it to the insert position. Using your index finger, carefully bend the bracket arm to allow the pin to be inserted.
Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.
Remove 2 screws and then disconnect wires to the bulb sockets. Reconnect the wires Reinstalled lamp case , tab end first then replaced the 2 screws and the Lens cover. In addition, I changed out the incandescent bulbs to a much cooler LED bulb.
Refrigerator light not working. If I would flick the button it would go on for a minute but not stay on.
The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!
After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.
Freezer Drawer door would not close easily due to worn / damaged sliding rails
Removed the large freezer drawer bin. Took out the 2 screws holding the door to the rail, pulled drawer off the rails and set it aside. Note: the drawer still has the non-sliding part of the rail assembly attached to it. Reached inside the freezer and pushed the tab holding each of the rails and slide out the old rails. Removed the bolts on the freezer door holding the remaining part of the rail assembly (The white part). Attached the complete rail assembly to each side of the freezer drawer. Inserted the drawer and newly attached rails into the slots holding the rail. Slid the drawer in which allowed the rails to slide over the holding tabs. Checked door for in / out sliding easy and inserted the large bin back into the unit. I had purchased the full L & R rail assembly.
Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them. undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.
NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save! NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors. NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy. MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.
After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines
Ordered part from part select. Received part with out instructions. It took only one screwdriver for 1 screw removal and then removing cover to replace switch. Pretty simple