LGR3330ADW Admiral Range - Instructions

1)Completely removed racks, oven bottom and broiler drawer to access unit. 2)Shut off gas supply by by pulling horizontal lever on left side of safety valve forward to close valve. 3)With screwdriver, removed heat shield covering safety valve and connector from igniter. 4)With socket wrench, removed the two mounting screws on igniter. 5)Installed new igniter, connecting to safety valve. 6)Turned on gas supply by pushing horizontal lever to left of safety valve back to open valve (see step 2). Turned on oven to test. 7)Upon gas igniting, shut off oven and install oven components in reverse order.

Removed burner pan screws,igniters, gas tubes & burners. Changed 2 igniters, removed rust & repainted ends of 2 of the tubes (heatproof paint). New burners were made a hair smaller than original but locked in O.K...Now, the hard part...disconnected all four tubes from gas valve assembly. (Had to shut off gas to house in order to remove main gas line to stovetop.) Had to remove valve box in order to remove/replace frozen valve. Unit is 25 years old, works as and looks new...Rust was caused by boil-overs.

Hello,

Your website and prediction that this replacement part was the problem were exactly correct. This part was easy to remove and replace, it is the starter for the oven so it comes with a heating element and a built in connector. I simply pulled the old wires up, unhooked the connector and removed the two mounting screws. Plugged in the new part, pushed the connector back down past the insulation, re-installed the screws and turned the oven on and poof, it started up again. We have also noticed that the oven stays hotter now, just like it did when we bought it.

Thank you very much for the advice and for supplying the correct part. A $65 part is much better than having to buy a $500 new stove/oven. We are very happy we found you and will use you again should some other appliance break down.

Sincerely,
Jim Arao
Seaside, CA 93955

The burner head caps on my Magic Chef no longer work and had to be replaced. I ordered 1 of the 4 caps to see how it would work out for me. I did not have any issues replace the cap. I contacted PartSelect and order the other 3 caps. The sales representative took my order and was EXTREMELY helpful. Now I know why all of my neighbors choose PartSelect. Including the cleaning, it did not take me more than 15 minutes. The video was also extremely helpful. Our Magic Chef should be good for another 6-8 years. Thanks PartSelect.

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.

turn burner cap counter clock wise lift out remove to leads,do not have to turn power off they are mini volts.Insert the two (leads)weirs on to new cap,twist back in done.Fire it up.

Ordered the oven sensor. Two screws to remove to replace old sensor. Since this was a slide in unit, you had direct access to the wiring harness. Used the adaptor. Total repair time about 20 minutes. A very easy do-it-yourself project.

easy

First, let me say that the (built-in, electric) oven I was working on was made sold by Kenmore, but the error code and, possibly the repair might apply to many other brands. I was getting a beeping sound and an F1 Error Code on the display of the "clock, timer, control board". On-line research said "you're control board needs to be replaced. I spent days looking for a cheap, new one ($400 for a factory replacement did not appeal to me). Then, I tried "re-setting" the control board. In my case, it took- turning off the power to the oven, turning power back on, pressing and holding "clear". After 30 seconds the beeping stopped. 45 seconds later the error code went away and the oven worked. I opened it up and carefully tested everything with a meter while it was on.It has been working flawlessly for two weeks now. So, the repair took me weeks and also less than two minutes, plus time to give it a check-up. Hope this helps. P.S. I had to say that I used a part in order to post this, I did, but not for this repair.

guessed at btu inputs for oven a couple of orifices were color coded for burners but not all good thing I have done some of these before so they dont blow up

We replaced 3 of 4 igniters on the stove top according to the previously submitted recommendations. Easy to do butt after putting one of the modules back together, we found one igniter still didn't function. We discovered the solution was to run the connecting wire under the gas tubing. Apparently it was compressed when it was over the top of the tube and not under it.

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

Slightly turn burner head clockwise and it comes out. Pulled out spark electrode wire and hand installed it into new piece. Cleaned area and replaced burner head with a slight twist to lock in place. Bought two and have spare one left. Other three burners are ok but slightly rusted. We are ready for the next one to show a leak. May just replace the one that seems more worn out. Great solution. Saved a bundle on repairs and delayed having to buy new stove. This one has worked perfectly for over ten years.

I opened the door partway to remove the door. Then I removed the bottom heat shield plate by pulling it towards me and lifting it up. I removed the two screws holding on the igniter, then with the the disconnect removed the old ignitor. I plugged in the new ignitor, replaced the screws, replaced the heat shield, replaced the oven door, and was done in ten minutes.

Replacing the vertical mount igniter was very simple. Remove 2 srews and one plug. I did pull out the oven to unplug te igniter. The process could not be easier.