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replace leaking water inlet valve assembly
1. Shut off water to refrigerator. 2. Removed bottom sheet metal cover (6 screws). 3. Removed leaking water inlet valve assembly from refrigerator (1 screw). 4. Remove water inlet tube (loosen nut) and tube back to refrigerator (pull from water valve after remove cotter pin washer). 5. Detach two electrical wire harnesses. 6. Install new water inlet valve assembly to refrigerator (1 screw). 7. Replace both water tubes to water inlet assembly. 8. Re-attach both wiring harnesses. 9. Turn water to refrigerator on. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Re-attach bottom sheet cover (6 screws).
Turn off power, remove upper and lower drawers (may need to open upper refrigerator doors to remove large freezer bin,) remove drawer supports (upper and lower), remove rear freezer panel (trick is to loosen 4 screws on fan bumpout to get the panel to come free from the freezer side wall), test thermistor with multimeter (should have continuity or near zero resistance across 2 orange fuse wires) before cutting zip ties, cut zip ties holding Thermistor in place, remove old Thermistor, install new Thermistor, install new zip ties, replace rear freezer panel, install upper and lower drawer supports, install drawers, turn on power, should be fixed if error code doesn't return after 6 hours.
Water feed line running from water valve to filter housing was leaking
Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!
An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out. Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage. Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw). remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time. With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order. Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks. After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place. While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.
Removed ice dispenser and display with small screwdriver from front of the fridge. Pried out the whole piece slowly. This exposed the motor that activates the chute. Plugged in the new motor before any removal to verify the motor was the problem. When it worked, removed old and installed new. 3 screws. Piece of cake.
Getting the ice maker support bracket back into position on the door.
I followed the repair video provided by your website. Overall, very accurate. Only problem was finding the exact fit for the ice maker mounting bracket. In the end, it was my inexperience refitting the unit into the door slot.
I ordered the part from Partselect, received it two days later, installation couldn’t be easier, remove two screws from the hinge and slide the old part out, remember to unhook the electric line. To install just do it in the opposite order.
Low water pressure which in turn led to no water and no ice.
Unplugged fridge, shut off water supply disconnected water supply from fridge. Remove screws that hold lower cover on back of fridge, removed screws holding valve assembly to fridge. Disconnect two electrical connections, remove black c-clip on out flow water line, lift fitting on outflow line side and pull water line off. Replace with valve assembly in reverse order
The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them. undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.
NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save! NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors. NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy. MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.
After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines
Replaced old hose and installed the new one. Was very simple with the instructions in your email..... step by step, could not of been any similar.... you guys rock
The spring that connects the flipper assembly to the left door broke.
Removed the 2 Phillips head screws that attach the flipper assembly to the door. Slide the flipper assembly up to disconnect the top & bottom bracket. Disconnect the quick connect wire assembly behind the center hinge bracket and remove the flipper assembly. Install the new flipper assembly in reverse order.