LFX25950TT LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.

Removed the damaged tube and replaced the it with a new one.

Easy repair. Unplugged refer. Took back cover off with screwdriver. Unscrewed the support for the pump. Unhooked water lines from both ends of bad pump. Pulled electrical line off the old pump. Put the support on the new pump, hooked up lines, and electrical plug and screwed the pump to the frame. Put the coever back on unit. Plugged back into wall. Worked immediately.

I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.

Gave model number on website, found picture of icemaker section. Ordered part that came in 3 days and switched old for new

Remove door seal and cam shaft (one piece). Remove broken cam by removing Philips head screw. Replace broken cam with new cam and reassemble. The actual repair took about 15 minutes however the majority of time was spent figuring out that the door seal and cam shaft had to be removed, no tools required.

Remove push plate for water/ice maker switch, remove 2 screws and 2 wires for switch. Replace with new.

slid screw driver under edge of switch, easy.

So easy that my 13 years old son replaced it.

removed old lever ( 2 screws ) took apart electrical connection, replaced lever, connected electrical hookup, put in screws. DONE !!!!!!

followed detailed movie from Utube video

I removed the old lamp cover and case. Discovered that the last repair person had not re installed it correctly so the case had melted from the bulbs. I Removed the screws that was supposed to hold it up, assembled the case and cover, inserted the screws and anchored them in where they belong. Problem solved!

clipped new part on ice door

My husband took out the ice maker. We ordered the part. He looked on YouTube for instructions. Including looking up instructions, I think it took him way less than an hour.

Tape off the light button so door alarm does not go off. Take off the clear light shield and remove the light bulbs. Be careful, bulbs may still be HOT!! With Phillips head screw driver unscrew the light plate assy. Drop it down in a comfortable position. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the thermal sensor and remove light assy. Install new light assy into light plate assy. There is no thermal senor in the new assy. Snap light plate assy back into place and install the two screws previously taken out. Install bulbs and clear cover. Remove tape from light door switches and you are done. Lights should go on and off when door buttons are pushed in and out.