KUDW03CTSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

i asked the vrtual repair stating the problem of my dishwasher machine ,he then give me two possible solution change the water presure switch which i did order the part and installed it and it works now..............thanks partselect.

Popped the old housing apart with screw driver, saving internal part, installed part into new housing, placed in posistion, installed two new screws and it worked like charmed. So simple, I have ordered 2nd part to replace opposite side which is not yet broken. Thanks to the terrific phone assistant who convinced me it would work and not have to replace the entire rack which was suggested by a repair man. . . . . . Many thanks! ! ! !

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Grabbed old seal and removed it.(notice how seal was situated in slot)

Pushed new seal in slot that held old seal. close door.

If dishwasher still leaks you put the seal in backward (I did!)remove seal reverse it and reinsert it.

pull out the dishwasher
lay it on its side
use a 1/4" drive socket with extension and a universal joint to undo the the hidden bolt,
twist the motor 1/4 turn. this is the hard part you have to pull fairly hard and rock the motor around a little to get the o-ring to let the motor slide out.
lube up the new motor with jet dry or soap and insert back it, turn it back 1/4 turn, install the bolt and plug the motor control wires back in, then reinstall it back under the counter

Disconnected Power, Turned off water valve, disconnected drain return line, disconnected water line, removed two screws on inside-top that was mounted to counter, pulled out dishwasher while feeding power cord, drain line, water line. Turned Dishwasher on it's side and disconnected water line and water fill line from Fill valve Assembly. Disconnected power connector from Valve. Removed one screw from Fill valve assembly and removed Fill valve assembly.
Installed Fill valve assembly and screwed screw back in. Installed Water line and water fill line from valve. Snapped power connector back in. Doubled checked Fill Valve connections to make sure they were tight. Slide Dishwasher back in while lines and power back through to under sink. Made sure Dishwasher was set in place and mounted two screws to counter. Connected water line to water valve and connected discharge line back to it's location. Turn water back on. Plug power back in.
Turned unit on and checked for leaks at the fill Valve assembly, water line and discharge tube.
Saved ~ $ 100.00. Easy job. I wished I didn't wait so long when it was making the noise for so long...Good luck..

If your not getting clean dishes this is an easy check to make that will likely turn out to be your problem. If not, you need to get this far anyway and it's an easy check to make. Remove the top and bottom rack. The bottom and top sprayer are connected together as an assembly by the water transfer pipe the goes up the back side of the dishwasher interior. This needs to be removed. There are two clips that hold the assembly in place at the middle rear of the washer and the top of the washer. Grasp the water assembly with your hand at the location of the clips, top one first and give a twist that rotates the piece out of the clip. Once the assembly is free from both clips hold the assembly at the lower rear where it starts up the back of the washer and move the whole thing to your right to turn the base clockwise. The whole thing will release from the bottom of the washer and come out as one big piece. Set it aside and you will see four torx head screws that were hidden under it. Remove these screws and the round screen assembly that they are holding to the bottom of the washer. Set that part aside as well. Now your looking at the well area where water collects to get into the pump. There will be a little standing water there, it's normal and not a problem. To the left side of the well an inch or two under water you will see one Torx head screw. It's one bit size smaller than the other screws. Remove it and pull up on the cover that it is holding in place. Now you are looking at the chopper assembly, it's a four bladed knife that rotates across the face of a screen. If you can rotate the knife blades and not have the shaft behind the screen move, it bad! Grasp it by the top of the screen and lift it slightly and pull it toward you to remove it. The shaft that turns the blades has worn away where it connects to the blades. It doesn't turn anymore so the screen is plugging and no water is able to get to your dishes. Order a new one and put it back in the same order you took it apart. It helps to have a little screw driver to lift the knife blade away from the screen when your putting in your new part. Load up the washer and give it a test run. YOU DID IT!!!

Removed new from box and installed rollers as instructed that's all there was , very easy.

Removed the front panel of the dishwasher. Unhooked the electrical connection between the dishwasher and the dispenser, which was as easy as unplugging a cord from an electrical outlet. Removed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one. Replaced the front panel. This was a super easy repair.

I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. This took the bulk of the repair time along with disconnecting the water supply and electrical connection. I had enough slack in drain hoses that I could turn the dishwasher over to replace the motor. I was surprised that there was only one bolt that held the motor in place. I put the motor on, turned the dishwasher upright and slide it back unde the counter and began the long process ofreconnecting everything. I am sureit could have gone faster if I were younger and did not need glasses for close work. Start to finish took me four hours. This was the fourth time I have replaced motors in dishwashers of various makes.

When the top rack stopped cleaning, I tracked down the problem to the food shredder/chopping blade, and then to the impeller that drives the blade. The knob on the impeller had sheared/broken off. That meant removing the motor, and replacing the impeller. Four hours, a band-aid, and a trip to Home Depot later, here are my suggestions

1. Look for videos – this site is awesome, but they don’t have a video on this particular repair. I found 4 that got me close to knowing what I was doing.
2. Do all the “remove internal stuff” - you had to anyway to find the issue with the shredder/cutting blade
3. Take pictures as you move along, you’ll need them when you have to remember the placement of the water line, drainage hose, wired connections etc.
4. You need a 1/4 inch socket set. A 3/8 drive will NOT work (it won’t fit between the shroud and the base). Don’t start working on the repair, unless you have a 1/4 in socket with about a 6" extension
5. Someone at Kitchenaid should be shot for having the waterline connection facing the back of the unit. Use a short adjustable wrench
6. The order comes with a washer, but when you take the impeller off this model, you’ll see you don’t need it.
7. Placement is everything – there was zero clearance between the bottom of the unit and the floor. Placement of the water line, drain hose, and power line was critical – had to re-position the unit about 7 times to get it to “play nice”.
8. Hindsight – only needed to remove the wire harness for the motor (take pictures)
9. Hindsight – gloves are a great idea – sheet metal is unforgiving

Since I had manual from initial installation I knew code meant heater was malfunctioning. Went to Sears, Lowes..no parts to repair. Instructed to go to appliance repair shop, closed of course...ordered online instead here and received in 2 days. Repair took 20 minutes. Super easy! Do not attempt to use adjustable wrench to tighten, use socket set as plastic electrode casings will be compromised. Takes some tork. Probably saved $100-$150 repair call. Wife was pleased. I was suprised how easy.

Major appliance retailer sent out a repairman to diagnose the issue with the washer. They determined the control board needed to be replaced. They wanted twice the price for the part plus an additional two hundred dollars to return and install. Total time to remove and replace the part less than fifteen minutes. I purchhas same issue. Once again the repair people, (another $80.00 for the second service call), say the control board muased the part from Part Select and installed myself. Washer st be replaced. I will purchase another dishwasher.

I watched the video identifying the part and the procedure to make sure I could handle this. The phone attendant was also very helpful in making sure I ordered the correct part,which arrived in one day (amazingly). Everything was clearly described in the instructions and if you have done electrical work this would be relatively easy. You will need a specific screw driver bit to open the control panel but everything else is straightforward, just follow the instructions. Works perfectly now (I needed a new control panel about a year ago and Kenmore charged me $229 but it was just over a year since then....) PartSelect is a great service!

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in