KUDS40CVBL4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I received the gasket promptly. The instructions were easy to follow. We did not use the dishwasher for 24 hours as instructed. It has worked perfectly for 2 weeks. I feel I saved $200 by purchasing the gasket on line and installing it myself.

The video instructions were excellent and although the work was considerable having to remove the entire machine, the replacement of the pump motor and housing assembly went like clockwork. All working well now thanks!!

Replacing this motor is fairly simple. I had installed the dishwasher 5 years ago with longer water supply and drain lines - just in case. So after disconnecting power lines and mounting screws all I had to do was turn the dishwasher on it's side. Power to the motor is a simple disconnect connection. The motor is held in place by a 3/8" screw, you'll need a long, about 6", nut driver to get to the screw. Once the screw is removed you can rotate the motor counterclockwise then pull out. Mine took some effort. There will be a screen that will probably be knocked loose. The screen can only been installed one way and there is a slot that lines up with the inside of the dishwasher motor housing. Mine was clogged with some dish washer soap so I cleaned it before placing it back in. After that it is just a reverse of the install. Took me a little under 45 minutes start to finish.

I followed the video provided by PartSelect step by step. It was as easy as the demonstration given. It also shipped to my house incredibly fast. Made for a happy day!

1. Place a towel in the bottom of the dishwasher to keep anything from falling in the drain. 2. Release the clamping bracket on each side of the water line that the spinner kit is attached to, so you can pull it down a little to get the old spindle out of the hole. 3. Take the old spindle out. 4. Put the new spindle in. 5. Push the spinner wheel onto the new spindle until it you hear it snap into place. 6. Push the water line back into the bracket until you hear it snap into place. 7. Tug on the spinner slightly to make sure it is secure. 8. Done.

I had to pull the dishwasher out from the cabinets about 12" in order to pull the old seal off. Installing the new seal was quite easy, since there is no adhesive necessary. Start at the top center of the replacement seal and snap the groove of the seal which is hard plastic, into the mating parts of the tub and the tub trim. Its a little hard to explain, but pay attention to how the original seal (W10179427) was installed.

Lifted out the old damaged cap; replaced it with the new one. No tools needed. It took one minute. The company had the part sent out to us immediately; it arrived within a few days. The whole process of ordering, receiving, and repairing was super convenient.

repairman replaced the valve inlet; first website tried to tell me I needed a new pump, but repairman said it would be some type of valve; service rep on phone very helpful,I ordered the correct part,except for having to lay on the floor, he repaired it easily; part came within 24 hours. Worked immediately. No additional tubes or parts needed.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

First I shut off the power and the water then I disconnected the drain hose. Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter and turned it up side down. I remover the pump retaining screw turned the pump, removed it. installed the new pump reinstalled the retaining screw. and reinstalled the dishwasher under the counter. I reconnected the drain and water then turned on the power. the dishwasher is working great. Thanks PartSelect for the fast delivery and the right part.

The dishwasher was so load I was sure the pump had a bad bearing. . . After reading the on line comments I examined the chopper and it looked ok. As it turned out the damage was on the shaft and caused the shaft to lock onto the screen without the ability for the spring to work it must have caused excess pressure making the loud noise. I replaced the chopper and now the dishwasher is very quiet again. To replace I took out the baskets and four screw on the big screen and one more screw on the chopper cover then I had to pull on the chopper with moderate force and install the new one . Then I put back the covers and basket. . . Very easy

Took out the old basket, set in the new basket. Took all of 10 seconds to complete.

Installed brackets

The part was easy to install. But , you might have to unhook electrical, water, and drain. That is the time problem, part install is easy. All I had was a socket set, 1/4, drive fits. But a nutdriver would have been easier. WATCH the install video, great info!!!!!

Remove power to the machine. My particular installation did not require physically removing water and drain lines. Remove the dishwasher from the cavity. Put a towel or two down on the floor. Lay the washer on its face on the towels and this orients the motor in the up position on the bottom of the washer. CAREFULLY unplug the motor wiring harness but if possible, leave the heating element connection in place as spade connectors tend to lose their grip with multiple engagements. Remove the single bolt located between the motor and stainless bottom of the cavity that locks the motor in place. Leave it in the cardboard shield, that really helps in reinstalling it. CCW rotation of the motor disengages it from its housing. Work the motor straight up and out of the housing. This was the most difficult part of the entire process due to the metal housing not quite clearing the plastic pump housing where they mate, but its do-able. Nothing should have to be forced. Now you have the motor in hand. Be very attentive how and what order you disassemble. Remove the back of the motor housing to block the armature to remove the impeller. DO NOT NICK THE FIELD WIRING IN THE MOTOR. I believe the threads were left hand but I don't remember the rotation. They do tighten in the direction of the motor rotation though. Carefully pry the seal out of the pump housing with many short lifts as to not mar the housing itself. Added a little dishwashing detergent on the outside of the new seal and carefully pushed it into place with the end of my screwdriver. Don't cut yourself on the metal insert in the center of the seal.Reassemble the impeller to the shaft WITH the spacer that comes with the new impeller kit. Make sure the impeller is tightened down completely to the end of the threads to insure proper clearances when reassembled. Don't force or over tighten. You'll feel a positive stop. Reassemble the motor to the housing Lubricate the housing o ring seal on the outside with a VERY small amount of dishwashing liquid lest you create a suds factory on startup. Replace the holding bolt on the pump housing. Reconnect the motor leads and heater element if removed. Stand the washer back up. There will probably be water around the door area from the pump when the machine is returned to the upright position. Reconnect lines and check under the pump housing for leaks while in operation being careful not to get into moving parts or electrical connections. Good luck.