KUDS02FRSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I just put the new cap on and that was it.

The air inlet strip has a flap and two smaller side flaps that seal the bottom of the inner door to the bottom pan that hold the water. The flaps don't form a watertight seal as they only serve to prevent the water surging during wash and rinse cycles from splashing out of the bottom pan onto the floor under the door. What I learned after dismantling the door is that the problem I was having with water dripping from the bottom of the bottom of the outer door was being caused by a loose upper round louvered vent and not he lower vent strip. If the lower vent strip were the problem, water would leak from the front lip of the bottom pan, which is located well behind the face of the front door panel.

Here's my recommendation on the lower vent srtip repair. Turn off the power to the unit at you breaker panel. The air inlet strip is fastened to the backside of the inner stainleess steel door panel. To access the screws the outer door panel must be removed. Open the door and remove the six torx head screws that fasten the outer door panel to the stainless steel inner door. Don't remove the two torx screws top dead center as they hold the door latch. After removing the screws, raise the door up to the nearly closed position. Lift up the outer door panel handle and door bottom to disengage the outer panel from the inner stainless door. The next part is a little tricky since the vent strip hex head screws are at he bottom of the stainless door panel, facing out with the door closed. The lip of the bottom stainless pan is high enough to make it a tight fit to access the screws. There is also a steel bracket that is a door stiffener and holds electrical wiring. I found removing the bracket held by a 1/4" hex head screw on each side made access to the vent strip scews easier. Lay flat on the floor. With a 3/16" nutdriver or socket wrench each of the five vent strip screws can be removed. It's a tight fit between the bottom lip and door bottom, but it can be done. Remove the old vent strip and attach the new one. Make sure it fits snugly into the slot. Best to have an extra pair of hands at this point to hold the stip securely in place while screws are reinserted from the opposite side. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

It was when I had the outer door panel off that I noticed my problem was water getting past the upper round louver vent seal and thus running down the inside of the outer panel. Simple fix was to remove and clean the scale residue from the parts and door. Then reassemble the vent and twitst tighten the vent to compress the rubber seal on the inside face of the door.

Removed mushroom shaped float cover by simply pulling up. Cover simply slide down into switch which is mounted through the floor of the tub. Using an adjustable wrench loosened and removed plastic fastening nut allowing removal of switch assembly from below. Disconnected two wires from switch and attached replacement assembly, reinserted in mounting hole, reattached nut from top, reinserted float cap and job done! The only tricky part is that the switch needs to be mounted inside assembly, wires connected and snapped shut before reinserting. Not difficult once you figure it out, Also need to make sure rubber washer is inserted on the overflow tube before reinstalling. Keep track as you remove and simply reverse the order. Tried to obtain part locally and was told it would be 6-10 days before delivery. Order from Part select arrived in 2 days.

First I removed the (8) screws holding the front door panel on. Then I took the door panel off and unpluged the ribbon wiring so the door was free from the dishwasher. I then unpluded the wiring going to the dispensor. Then I removed the (6) screws holding the dispensor into place and then sprung the holders (2) so the dispendor could be removed. I stuck the new dispensor in its place, pushed it in so the (2) metal holders locked into place, then replaced the (6) screws, pluged the wiring into the new dospensor, pluged the ribbion wiring back in and replaced the front door panel and reinstalled the (8) screws that hold the front door into place. And then tested and everything worked fine.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

I initially thought the pump assembly was dying (or was damaged by a piece of glass or something that had gotten into the pump. I priced the parts and decided I wasn't sure the unit was worth it. But the dishwasher was also not cleaning well, and was leave soap on the dishes. Turned out the water inlet valve was intermittently failing to open. Using the troubleshooting guide (both downloadable and inside the bottom panel) was no help. I just checked and saw that there was power going to the valve when it did not open: diagnosis made. Step 1: turn off water to dishwasher. Step two: remove bottom panel. Step 3, place towels under dishwasher. Step 4, disconnect water line from elbow screwed into inlet valve. Step 5: remove inlet valve screw with nut driver and slide valve sideways and back to remove. Step 6: slide clamp on hose to dishwasher away from valve using pliers. Some work involve with sliding hose off the valve (careful, the hose is accordioned plastic) Step 7: remove elbow from inlet valve (this required a visegrip to hold the narrow nut surface on the valve and a wrench to turn the elbow). Step 8: apply Teflon tape to elbow and screw into new inlet valve. Step 9: install hose to dishwasher and return clamp to hold hose in place. Step 10: reinstall valve by placing tongues into grooves and sliding to the left, reinstall screw. Step 11: tighten elbow with wrench, now that valve is held in place. Step 12: reinstall water line. Step 13: turn on supply line and check for leaks

After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.

Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.

1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)

Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.

Ordered the parts on your site since I could find a parts schematic that really helped. I had to move the unit out and replace the spring on one side. We replaced both nylon cords since the other was showing a little wear. Received the parts quickly and made the repair the same day.

Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.

Took racks out, loosen screw on top and back then twist feed tube to right and whole assembly can be removed. Now you should be able to see some torx screws; remove those and then remove the piece they were holding down, from there you'll see another screw, remove it and the piece and so on until there are no more screws. Now there is the food chopper cover that needs to be removed; mine was stuck there. You should notice some ribs underneath that allow the water to be sucked in while keeping really big pieces out; I got a pair of channel-locks, opened them all the way and was able to slip one of the pieces under the cover and pull straight up, once off you will see the chopper covvered in food. I cleaned mine off and it looked good, but when I put it back and stuck my finger down teh discharge tube and turned the pump, the chpper did not turn. when I put the new one in and did the same test it did turn. If the chopper is still fits in the slot, it can be cleaned and put back and work for several washes while the part is shipped. I went ahead and changed the check valve since I had it opened which is just to the right of the chopper(all you can see is a little slit and some black rubber). Use some needle nose and pull it out. I would not do this unless you plan on changing it, I pulled mine out to look at it and when I put it back so I could order the parts the dishwasher never drained properly. When you compare a new one with an old one you will see what I mean, you can drop a new one right in but the old one you will have to force in (gets water logged over time and expands). This job is very easy and a lot cheaper than a new DW...and your wife will be impressed, so do not be intimidated.

I'm really handy, but this one was a no-brainer. Lift the damaged silverware basket out of the dishwasher and place the brand new one back in its place. It took more time relishing the new basket and how brand new it looked then the actual repair took.

This was an easy repair. The leak was around the solenoid of the inlet valve and thus the assembly needed replacement. Turn off the water. Take the screws that secure it to the cabinet out. Pull the dishwasher out where you can tip it on its side. (you might get someone to help you hold it tipped. Disconnect the water line (copper) and the inlet hose (just clipped on)and the electric connection.
Take one screw out that holds the valve assembly in place and remove the valve assembly.
Put the new assembly in as the reverse procedure. Make sure to use plumbing tape on the threads to the copper water connection so that you wont have a drip leak when its tightened.