KUDM01TJBL0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

In less than 5 minutes, we removed the stopper on the end of the arm that held the top rack, slid off the top rack, rotated off the broken wheel assembly, rotated on the new one, slid the rack back on, and replaced the stoppers.

The upper spinner fell off with each wash and I had been putting the pointy tac-like piece back into the washer type piece, but they did not hold. I ordered the whole kit (spinner was not needed but came with the set). The tac-looking part was the problem, it had been worn down with use. When pushing the new pieces together to hold the upper spinner back in place it was 100% fixed. Took about 10 seconds. Good luck!

Replacing the actual part was easy. Getting to it was the slightly difficult part. Here's how it went:
Remove the torex type screws surrounding the inner door - this was the easiest part. The screws came right out, but be careful. Removing the screws near the top (was controls) part will release the seaparate top part. Once you do that, it's only held by wiring, and you don't want that to break, so treat this part with care.
Remove the bolt screws holding the outer door to the inner door - so the inner white door containing the dispenser to be replaced, and the outer door separate, but are held together by these bolt screws. You need to remove these to separate the doors further giving you easier access to the dispenser. Some of these bolt screws were in challenging positions to reach.
Disconnect dispenser wiring and replace part - Remember where the wires go, so mark them before removing them. The part is held in by 6 bolt screws. Once removed, the part easily came out. Pop the new one in, screw the bolts in, plug the wiring back up.
Put all parts mentioned previously back together.

Now even though we gave the correct model # of our unit, the part sent did not match 100% what we replaced. There was an extra wire plugged to ours. The connector to plug it to does not exist on the new part. My assumption is this wire is for detection of rinse agent (illuminates a ligth on the front panel if empty) - so we just left this unplugged. The new part has a manual, visual gauge on it anyway which I prefer, so this was not a big deal. This is just warning for others that do this kind of thing.

All in all, it was a well worth it repair. $50 as opposed to $500 for a new unit and installation. We will definitely be looking to this site again for items we feel can be repaired. THANK YOU!

Popped out old wheel housing. Popped in replacement with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Easy.

To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

This site is wonderful..., thank you. Especially thanks to Nanette's detailed experience. The thing that gave me the most problem (and apparently Nanette, as well) was removing the lower round cover of the chopper assembly. Finally, some one on the internet identified the trick...put needle nose pliers in the screw-hole and pull-away. It came right out. Wish I could acknowledge the source but now can't find it.
Actually, the check valve was good, but I replaced it anyway. It was 10 times the trouble to replace than the drain pump. Wish I had started with the drain pump. By removing the drain hose, I stuck my finger in the hole and discovered the problem: the impeller was off of the pump and lying in the bottom of the drain. It was a simple thing to replace the pump. Press down on the locking mechanism and turn it to the left. When it was off, I could see that the check valve was in place and not a problem. (Of course by that time, I had already replaced it.) Good luck.

Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Partselect.com. Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

This unit was unique that whole motor assembly was held in its place by two plastic clip. The gasket had few rings that worked as place holder, although gaskets don't go bad often this model could be if it gets pulled alot and if motor assembly get pushed it will push up the gasket and cause a leak. Repair was simple, 1) take spray arm off from inside. 2) get under neath the dishwasher, take off wires so it would free up some room, pulled two plastic holder out, gently push the motor assembly up to the tub, 3) from inside the tub, pull up the assembly enough to get your hand under the gasket and pull them off. 4) Replace the gasket, align the assmebly and push down to snap in the gasket. 5) get under and push in two plastic clip back in, put wires back into its place. Back in the tub to push down the assembly again to make sure there are flush with surface. Put spray arm back on. Finished.

First: Turn power to the Dish washer OFF, then remove the two panels at the bottom of the dishwasher.
Two: remove the Door face panel for easier access to the inlet-Valve.
Three: remove screw that holds Inlet-valve bracket.
Four: slide Inlet valve bracket left and back to get out of slots.
Five: Holding the Inlet-valve forward loosen and remove water line (copper tube nut / pressure fitting).
Six: Remove two wire clips
Seven: Remove platics hose (Spring Clamp)
Replace Inlet-Valve and reverse process///

Turned off water and disconnected line, then disconnected drain, turned off power and slid dishwasher out and turned turned upside down and removed hold down bolt ( it is a 3/8 head bolt) removed wire from motor and twisted motor assembly approximately 1/4 turn counter clock wise and removed old motor and seal assembly reinstalled new motor with new seal and rewired. Turned washer back upright and removed filter assembly and lower jet arm, removed cover for food disposal and reinstalled disposal blade back on pump drive reinstalled cover and filter assembly and jet arm. Slid unit back in place and anchored down to cabinet and turned water and power back on ran washer through a short cycle to clean any soap build up that was left inside and that was it, it all works just like new.

Replaced electronic control panel first which had an obvious defect (burned terminal). Still no power. Replaced fuse and works fine now. Took lots of reading to find out the dishwasher had a replacable fuse. Even the appliance store didn't know.

Via your web-site I was able to download the step-by-step screen-shot pictures. I was really surprised on how easy the detailed photo screen shots made the repair really easy! Thanks for making this repair a piece of cake. If I should ever need additional parts for any of my home appliances I will certainly order my parts through PartSelect.

Got Maintenance Flyer out an read about problem
Removed access plate
Disconnectd water and drain
Removed anchor screws
Pulled unit out and disconnedted from Electric
Flipped on it's back
Ohmed out all heat related items and found discrepency with Thermisitor resistance
Ordered and received Part
Changed out Thermisitor
Checked wiring to Heater and replaced connections
Hooked electric up
Ran Diognostics per Maintenance flyer and cleared fault
Hooked back up and ran like a champ

The reason it took so long is because I put the old thermisitor back in and tryed to run the diognostics just to make sure that was the problem