KUDI01DLBL6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

First let me tell you I am not a "handyman". I am a 50 year old housewife who was determined not to shell out $$$ if I could help it. I researched on the internet what could be the problem...it was more than likely the chopper assembly. I found a youtube video that showed how to get to the chopper assembly. So I removed the racks by dislodging the end clips. Next I took the bottom tub sprayer off by holding the middle with my fingers and turning the blade counter clockwise. Next, I unscrewed the line that ran in the back and up to the top sprayer (I only removed the one screw so I could slide it to the right slightly so I could remove it from the connector at the bottom and it revealed four screws that needed to come out of the mesh cover. After removing that there is one more screw that comes out of the shroud that covers the chopper assembly. I cleaned the area removed the chopper assembly (totally gunked up) and replaced it with the new one I purchased here...(lightening fast shipping btw!!...Yea! for PartsSelect.com....you guys rock!) I checked for gunk in the rubber valve assembly, super easy to remove/replace. Vacuumed standing water with my shop vac to get any errant noodles and food bits and reassembled all of the housing and lines in reverse order. Before I ran my dishwasher I put some clean water in the bottom...just poured about 32 oz in. Whether you need to or not....I don't know but figured it wouldn't hurt. IT WORKED LIKE A CHAMP! Super clean dishes again!! I felt so empowered and the whole thing cost me less than 20 bucks! Listen ladies....and men....this is super easy....If I can do it....any one can!

first I noticed that the dishwasher wasn't making any noise. Then I saw that there were no lights on the control panel. I opened the door and found water dripping off everything... I closed the door and tried hitting every button I could see, nothing happened. I checked the breaker, it was ok, and since I did all the wiring myself, I knew that was ok too. So I pulled off the upper panel of the front door and got out the electrical schematic that came with the washer.
first stop, the TCO, the thermal cutoff, it's like an inline fuse. I got 120 volts going in and nothing coming out. Did an ohm check and it was open.
Found it locally and replaced it. Now I've power to the control panel but the washer still doesn't work
because the micro switch in the handle is broken and that turns out to be the original problem...
the stupid plastic handle broke the micro-switch which shorted the TCO...

First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my elec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.

My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.

After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!

I removed the 6 torx screws that hold the control panel on the top part of the door, from the inside, removed the large plastic cover from the control board, removed the 2 big wires that go to the thermal fuse...tested for continuity and foung the fuse faulty...ordered a new fuse kit, reversed the procedure and it works like new.

Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Replacing the actual part was easy. Getting to it was the slightly difficult part. Here's how it went:
Remove the torex type screws surrounding the inner door - this was the easiest part. The screws came right out, but be careful. Removing the screws near the top (was controls) part will release the seaparate top part. Once you do that, it's only held by wiring, and you don't want that to break, so treat this part with care.
Remove the bolt screws holding the outer door to the inner door - so the inner white door containing the dispenser to be replaced, and the outer door separate, but are held together by these bolt screws. You need to remove these to separate the doors further giving you easier access to the dispenser. Some of these bolt screws were in challenging positions to reach.
Disconnect dispenser wiring and replace part - Remember where the wires go, so mark them before removing them. The part is held in by 6 bolt screws. Once removed, the part easily came out. Pop the new one in, screw the bolts in, plug the wiring back up.
Put all parts mentioned previously back together.

Now even though we gave the correct model # of our unit, the part sent did not match 100% what we replaced. There was an extra wire plugged to ours. The connector to plug it to does not exist on the new part. My assumption is this wire is for detection of rinse agent (illuminates a ligth on the front panel if empty) - so we just left this unplugged. The new part has a manual, visual gauge on it anyway which I prefer, so this was not a big deal. This is just warning for others that do this kind of thing.

All in all, it was a well worth it repair. $50 as opposed to $500 for a new unit and installation. We will definitely be looking to this site again for items we feel can be repaired. THANK YOU!

Popped out old wheel housing. Popped in replacement with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Easy.

To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

This site is wonderful..., thank you. Especially thanks to Nanette's detailed experience. The thing that gave me the most problem (and apparently Nanette, as well) was removing the lower round cover of the chopper assembly. Finally, some one on the internet identified the trick...put needle nose pliers in the screw-hole and pull-away. It came right out. Wish I could acknowledge the source but now can't find it.
Actually, the check valve was good, but I replaced it anyway. It was 10 times the trouble to replace than the drain pump. Wish I had started with the drain pump. By removing the drain hose, I stuck my finger in the hole and discovered the problem: the impeller was off of the pump and lying in the bottom of the drain. It was a simple thing to replace the pump. Press down on the locking mechanism and turn it to the left. When it was off, I could see that the check valve was in place and not a problem. (Of course by that time, I had already replaced it.) Good luck.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Partselect.com. Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure