KTRS25KAWH11 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

Repair went fine, no problems, had to wait for fan and compressor to come on. New defrost timer must of been in defrost mode, came on in about 30 minutes and is working fine, should get a few more years out of it.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

I was able to salvage the existing wiring and simply replace the ice maker itself and the valve located at the bottom-rear of the frig.

Simply removed and replaced the screws, changed the water tube and connected everything back up. I probably spent more time cleaning behind the frig that replacing the parts.

Very pleased with how quickly the parts came and everything was included!

First I Removed the racks. Next 3 hex bolts that secured the ice maker. Undid the ponytail wiring. 3 Phillips screws to remove the metal back. unplugged the Evaporator Fan Motor. Replaced the new one. reassembled.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Unplugged the fridge, emptied the freezer, removed the panel screws, removed the fan assembly retaining nuts, slid the spade wire connectors from the tabs, and performed these tasks in reverse to have the fridge up and running like new. I am not an appliance repair person, but I am not intimidated by simple repairs. Your instructions were easy to follow, and the cry in the kitchen of "we need a new refrigerator" was silenced for less than $50.00. Thanks!

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

With a socket set and screw driver I removed the old ic e maker . It took about 1 hr. I worked slowly as not to make a mistake. The only part that gave me a problem was the plug. You need to take off the face cover to press down on the plastic release clip. Putting it back took half the time because you knew what to look for.Just plug it in and mount the screws back in place , make sure it was level and I had ice in about an hour.

I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.

First, unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed bottom plastic liner of the freezer, 2 screws with 5/16 nut driver. At this point the ice maker had to be removed 3 screws, two on the upper part and the other under the ice maker. Now the back wall of the freezer section was removed by unscrewing 2 screws with the nut driver. This gave me access to remove the defective clip-on Bimetal defrost thermostat. It was located in the upper right corner on the back wall of the freezer. Cut off the 2 wires from the bad part( one pink the other brown)then used wire nut to replace with the new part and matched wires from freezer to new part( pink to pink and brown to brown) and clipped the part in one section of the coil. ( where the bad part was located) Put all back in place. And so far no more water leak inside the fridge.

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.