KSC23W8EYY00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions
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Evaporator Fan Motor quit working; top shelves of freezer got too warm
After viewing online videos of the repair process, it was very easy to replace the evaporator fan motor - just remove the back panel of the freezer compartment for EASY access to the evaporator motor. I received the new motor a day earlier than I thought I would. I took 15 to 20 minutes to replace the old motor. The only problem was the wiring on the new motor was on the opposite side of the motor as compared with the old motor. I was able to rotate the new motor enough for the new wiring to connect. VERY HAPPY with the results. A word of caution: the motor mounting brackets are plastic - go easy when trying to remove the brackets.
Parts Used:
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Adrian from REXBURG, ID
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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refrigerator not freeze
i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks
Parts Used:
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edgar from PAWTUCKET, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Top half of freezer & fridge were not cooling. Freezer fan had been making unusually loud noises.
Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.
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rich from PEMBROKE PNES, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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The lights were out in the part of the refrigerator and freezer section of refrigerator.
I ussed meter to check the voltage levels and they were fine. I refrence a you video on the refrigerator and foud out that the lights are setup in series like christmas tree lights. If the freezer light is out it will affect the rest of the lights in the refrigerator. I removed the freezer light module and test the light by swapping it with a know working light. the freezer light was the culprit that took the lights out in the side panels and the left side of the refrigerator section. I replaced the freezer light and all the lights now work without issue.
One light and they all go out. So i used one fo lights
One light and they all go out. So i used one fo lights
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Carlos from CHARLOTTE, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Wife used vacuum cleaner and busted blade off fan
Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money
Parts Used:
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Robert from GOSHEN, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Part went bad the freezer was freezing up and refrigerator not getting cold
I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.
Parts Used:
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Jessica from WILLIAMSBURG, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Replaced filter for ice maker
I removed the filter from the box I took the old filter out and inserted the new air filter put the cover down and that was it.
Parts Used:
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DANIEL from COLUMBIA, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 5 people
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Light didnt go on
The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!
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dorotea from staten island, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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changed the light bulb still would not work so I figured it was the switch sure enough.
I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.
Parts Used:
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anthony from HAVELOCK, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
2 of 2 people
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Door light switch disintegrated
Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch
Parts Used:
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Thomas from Roseville, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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fan was out of balance and rattleing-vibrating
I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ.
The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.
The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.
Parts Used:
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David from Leonard, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench set
4 of 8 people
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Catastrophic loss of cooling
It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.
Parts Used:
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Mark from Sugar Land, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 8 people
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Ice maker wouldn't cycle
Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.
Parts Used:
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Mark from Fairview Heights, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The icemaker would not produce ice because the motor that pushed the cubes out had failed. The original icemaker failed in this way and we had the icemaker replaced by Sears Service for about $200. The second icemaker failed for the same reason after 18 months. I decided to do the repair myself t
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
Parts Used:
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Jeffrey from Lexington, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 5 people
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fridge door switch did not work
I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!
Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.
Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.
Parts Used:
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stu from richmond, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
2 of 2 people
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