KHWS02RWH2 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

removed top cover,disconnected wires to valve,removed valve and hooked up a washer hose to test valve,one side was leaking,valve would not close.replaced with new valve that I received in 2 days,do not buy after market.

I removed the old pump and replaced it with the new one. I am the happiest person on earth right now to have my washing machine working at its best again. Thank you so much.

Replaced water pump

Unplugged electric cord and turned off water supply. Remove 3 screws @ rear of washer and removed top panel. Removed clamps on hoses and electrical connector to flow meter, removed and replaced with new flow meter. Replaced the top panel, turned on water supply and plugged unit in. Finished in less than 15 minutes. Saved myself several hundred $

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

Very simple repair. Lined up the baffle tabs with the drum slots. Pushed the tabs into the slots, pulled the drum baffle towards the opening of the wahser until it seated. You will hear aclick.

I followed the guy on the video. The only parts that were tough was having the right tools and having enough space to put the new part in. The part was only 70 dollars and I was so proud that I could do it. I am not very handy so if I can do it then anyone can. Plus I saved some money!

Removed the top of the washer by removing 3 screws on the back and sliding the top back and up. Removed the power cord and pipes. Next removed a screw holding the valve in place. Labeled the wires and pulled them off. The hard part was moving the locking tube ring further back on the tube before pulling the inlet tube off the valve. Reattach the black inlet tube and locking ring. I had to keep working it before it was in the right place. Some have mentioned that the hole didn't line up when they installed the valve. It turns out that there is a small slot in the plastic threaded tubes. One needs to wiggle the valve until the sheet metal rear wall fits in. Then the valve can be slid into position. Attach the mounting screw, hoses, top, power cord and try it out.

Followed video, slowly. Was easier then I expected. Everything fit perfectly.

Did it myself, found the model # from your website, received the part, it slid right on,yay, no more tears in my sheets!

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

I opened the top by taking four screws from the back and lifted the top. The part to be replaced was clearly in view. I opened the clamps on the hoses, pulled the hoses off, removed the wires, and reversed the process with the new part. The washer works great now! I ordered the part on a Friday, and it was delivered the next day, even though I didn't pay for overnight!