KEYE660WAL0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

My Whirlpool dryer had no heat. I removed the back panel and within minutes diagnosed the problem to a blown thermal cut-off fuse. I ordered a thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and had the parts at 7:30am Wednesday morning. Total time for diagnosing and repair was no more than 15 minutes. PartSelect saved me a ton of money and aggravation!!! AWESOME!!!!

Gary

Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!

We took off the back of the control panel, pulled the electric plug, pulled the button off of the front, and removed the push-to-start switch contained in a clear plastic box. We slipped off the three electric wires by hand. We found the part on the website, compared it to the photos given. A few days later we replaced the mailed part reversing the above. Very easy and cheaper than buying it at the local appliance store which it had to order it anyway.

Followed instructions from video, just removed lint collector, dryer top and front panel, removed broken belt and old idler pulley. Vacuumed and cleaned up inside dryer.installed new pulley and rib belt according to printed instructions,installed new dryer duct and new clamps. Saved myself huge service call or having to buy new dryer.Will be checking with this site on any future repairs instead of calling a repair service. Your video made it real easy to repair.and I am 77 years old.. Bob

Was not sure what was wrong but the Part Select site allowed us to view other repair issues and solutions. We ordered the kit, it arrived the next day (how is that possible) and easily put the parts in and chaching...money saved and dryer works better than ever. THANKS PartSelect, we give you an eleven and we will recommend you to everyone.

The repair was fairly straight-forward. I removed the front of the dryer, lifted the top off, and then released the tension off the belt dy depressing the pulley arm. Once the belt was off, the drum came right out and then it was on to unhooking the wiring from the old motor. Very simple up till this point. The snag came when I went to unthread the impeller fan off of the old motor shaft. It was permanently sealed onto the shaft so I had to cut the old shaft into using a reciprocating saw was a metal-cutting blade. Once this was done the new motor installed easily exactly like the old one was mounted. I had to also purchase a new fan due to the fact that I was unable to remove the cut shaft from the old fan. All parts worked great and the dryer assembled back together easily. Works like a new dryer now.

romoved from pkg. and fit it to the door. no tools needed. best of all the part came in 24 hrs and was fixed with out delay of waiting from a store that was out of our area. great costumer service!!!!!

1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes

this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to removed the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****

Removed the top and front panel, removed the dryer drum. Removed the worn out rear drum seal. I scraped and sanded the old glue residue from the rear of the drum. I used "0000" steel wool to clean the "brown seal residue" from the rear panel where the new seal on the drum would rub/seal against the rear panel. I used spring clamps to hold the seal in place prior to appling the glue. The glue was applied to the drum/seal and allowed to dry 30-45 min. I replaced the front drum seal (some of the other discussions in your forum had good hints on replacing this seal, better than the printed instructions), also replaced the belt and applied a light amout of lubrication (3 in 1 oil) to the idler pulley and the drum rollers. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly and most importantly no more brown streaks on clean clothes.

Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.

Removed back cover and replaced parts was not sure what was bad so i replaced all have used it once since and it worked fine!!! It was really simple replacing parts. Have used Parts Select before and will again!!! thanks 70 dollars is better than buyin a new one right now!!!

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!