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Heat element needed replacing
Repair was really simple. Saw that the outer shielding on the existing heat element had degraded and ordered a new element. Part was shipped to my house in two days. Actually took me longer to get the oven door off than to replace the element because the left bracket on the door was slightly bent. Element came out after removing 4 screws and disconnecting 4 wire terminals. I was able to do the repair inside the oven and did not have to pull it away from the wall as the wires were long enough to pull through. I used some painter's tape to tape down the disconnected wires so they would not fall back behind the oven. Then I used a needle-nosed pliers to slightly crimp the wire terminal to the heat element and screwed in the four screws. That was it! Never did this type of repair before and it was really easy. Also estimate that for my 20-25 minutes of work I probably saved over $200 in parts and labor if I hired someone to do it.
Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.
Using the video from PartSelect I followed the steps shown. Sliding the range out was difficult so I tilted it forward resting the frame on a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I did have to crimp on a new terminal. The repair was straightforward.
Turned off circuit breaker to oven Removed oven door Removed screws of reflector plate and top and back of oven Gently pulled element out and down slightly Removed slide crimps on wires Replaced reflector plate on new element Connected slide crimps on wires Screwed reflector plate with new element to top and back of oven Done. Total time 22 minutes Tested and it’s perfect!
The oven is a KitchenAid convection oven with 4 panes of glass. The front, two inner glass panes that aren’t “touchable” and the interior glass that is the one that takes the heat from the oven and which you can clean easily - this is important because the descriptions of the glass all say “inner glass”. This is door #3 in the diagram that measure 10 x 22”. Which I cracked when I was pouring water into a pan to create steam for bread baking (lesson learned).
Because of the age of the oven, to remove the oven door it was necessary to place “pins” (we use medium screws) into the hole behind the door latches. Then were able to lift off the oven door. (We saw some videos on YouTube)
We placed the oven door on the counter top and removed ALL screws that held the door at the bottom and around the casing - KEEP these screws separate by where you’ve removed them so you replace them into the proper section when you reassemble the door. Each glass you remove has slots that hold them in their proper places. I recommend taking a picture BEFORE you take out each glass as there are brackets that need to go in proper order and you don’t want to forget the order.
We had to flip the door over in order to CAREFULLY remove the casing and access the different inner glass sections (took the opportunity to really clean them). Gathered the broken glass pieces into a paper bag and vacuumed the fragments. Then we were able to place the new interior glass from PartSelect, and reassemble the oven door. It’s perfect!
This took some time most likely because it’s a very old oven and you need to be methodical. I was just glad to be able to get the part - not yet ready to replace the oven.
BTW, originally I was guided to order glass #7 which is one of the inner glass panes that you cannot touch - unless you take apart the oven door - The exchange for the proper door was handled very quickly and easily. Hope this helps.
Turned the breaker off to the stove. Removed 4 screws holding the element in place. Disconnected the electric connection from element. I had to replace the screws which were corroded. Connect the new element electric connection. Replace the 4 screws. Turn on the power. Turn on oven to burn off the smell of the new element. You are done.
I was stopped by the third screw on the roof of the oven, which was slightly rusted and would not budge in spite of using WD40! I had to enlist the aid of my son who arrived with better tools, including a SQUARE phillips head socket set. He also had to spend some time pinching and slightly reconfiguring one of the attachments in the back which did not slide together naturally. So, for an 82 year old retired housewife this was not as simple as it looked, but it was a piece of cake for guys like Erik with the know-how and the proper tools!
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
The side trim on the glass door needed to be replaced.
After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.
After using the self cleaning feature for the 10th or so time, the range locked up and nothing worked.
First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.
Taking off the glass lense for the light bulb was harder than I thought. It unscrews counterclockwise, but it was very hard to get off. It would not turn. I ended up using connector pliers I use for work, that has rubber jaws. The lense unscrewed very easy with it. Light also unscrews out. PartSelect.com is the only way to go to buy parts for appliances. It is simple, even has the illustrated parts catalog. And it saves a lot of time and gas, driving around looking for the part!!. PartSelect came through again.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
