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One of the oven door hinges broke. Oven door would no longer fully close.
Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were held in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.
cut power off and placed sturdy table same height as bottom of oven in front of oven. removed trim screws. pulled oven out onto table. removed top cover and panel on left side . tested transformer to be sure it was bad. then replaced transforner
Lift top of control panel where florescent light bulb is enclosed. Remove florescent bulb. Remove two Phillips head screws that are below bulb. Top of control panel swings down toward front of range to allow access to burner switches. Simply replace wires on new switch in same location as old switch.
The inside coil on the dual burner was not working
This is a slide-in range, so I: 1. Turned off the circuit breaker for the range. The range is hard-wired, so can't just be unplugged. I determined the clock on the range went off. 2. Removed 4 screws holding the front control panel to the cooktop. Removed 2 screws from each side panel into the cooktop. Removed 4 screws from the rear panel holding the cooktop. 3. With my assistant (my wife) lifted the cooktop and tilted it so that I could access the underside. 4. Used an iPad to take photos from several angles of the wire connections from each burner control. Printed the one showing the connections on the dual burner control. 5. Removed the 4 screws holding the sheet metal support for the dual burner and one of the other burners. Released the spring steel retainers holding the dual burner. Removed the burner. 6. Used the iPad again to take photos of the connections to the dual burner, and printed it. 7. Removed all the wire connections to the burner. Checked continuity from the center (common) terminal to each of the other terminals. Determined that in fact the inside coil was open (burned out). 8. Removed the two screws holding the spring clip retainers on the old burner. Matched the old and new burners to determine where the spring clips should go. Drilled 2 small holes in the base of the new burner and screwed the clips from the old burner on the new one. 9. Now the tricky part: The new burner didn't have the exact same limiter and heat sensor probe as the old one. After several false starts, we were able to barely make out the terminal letter/number designations on the control and match them to the same letter/numbers on the new burner. It required a magnifier and a strong flashlight to read these engraved markings. 10. Made the connections on the burner. I used a pair of long-nosed pliers to carefully pull the connections off the spade terminals, and attch them on the new burner. 11. Mounted the burner to the sheet metal support using the spring clips previously installed. 12. Re-attached the 4 screws holding the burner support to the cooktop. 13. Carefully replaced the cooktop onto the range, paying special attention to not pinching any of the wires, and making sure all the wires, from all the burners were still connected. 14. Replaced all 12 screws holding the cooktop to the range. 15. Turned on the power, and checked all burners, including the new one, to see if they were opetating properly. YAY! They all worked!
It must be noted that we had to call a repairman to troubleshoot our installation the first time. We had reversed two of the wires to the new burner, because of the difference between the old and the new limiter connections. The engraved markings in the porcelain were very difficult to see. The instructions that came with the new burner never addressed this issue, and instead had very confusing (and worthless) instructions about replacing the limiter from the old burner to the new on. (This was not possible, anyway).
After the repairman left, we discovered the front burner that had been working, no longer was. With our newfound experience, we repeated the previous steps to take the range apart and discovered one of the wires had become disconnected from that burner. We re-connected it, re-attached the cooktop, and everything worked.
One telltale indicator that we had mixed up the connections on the burner, was the red "hot' warning light on the range top came on as soon as we restored power, even though no burners had been on. I should mention that the dual burner "worked" a couple of times even with the reversed connections, but then failed to work any more.
Unscrewed about 10 screws to disassemble the door to get at the hinge then screw new hinge in. Was inspired by the woman who said she did it while watching a child. I saved $200 in the repair fee I was quoted
hinge would pop out each time the door was closed.
With glass side down: 1. Removed the side panels 2. Removed the bottom panel Turned over door holding glass in place. 3. Removed outer glass panel 4. Removed handle top 5. Removed top screw holding hinge mechanism 6. Removed screw for spacer and clip holding hinge mechanism 7. Lifted hinge mechanism out and replaced with new part. Reattached parts and screws in reverse order (6-1)
Both left and right door hinges broke off their pins
The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.
The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.
I have KitchenAid convection oven that is about ten years old . The hinge on the left hand side broke so I had to replace it. It took me about 2 hours to get the job done because I cleaned the door as I went . The change out while fairly strait forward did take some time . A lot longer the some of the people said .
Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.
Took the back off the stove, removed 2 screws, unclipped the bad sensor, clipped the new one on, put the screws back in and the back of the stove back on and that was it - 10 minutes
