KEBI206DBL11 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

With just the removal of a few screws I was able to replace the glass with the side benefit of cleaning the outter glass that had gotten dirty over the years with use. This is a simple project that all can complete.

After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.

It was a matter of swapping out the old door with new door. In all, it was a snap . Around 10 screws to take it apart and a few brackets to hold it all together.

Quickly

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Easily, Removed the oven with help of my grandson, this model is quite heavy. Open the back cover panel, removed the old blower. replaced with the new blower, covered with the back protective panel. About one hour because some screws much harder to reach.

The oven is a KitchenAid convection oven with 4 panes of glass. The front, two inner glass panes that aren’t “touchable” and the interior glass that is the one that takes the heat from the oven and which you can clean easily - this is important because the descriptions of the glass all say “inner glass”. This is door #3 in the diagram that measure 10 x 22”. Which I cracked when I was pouring water into a pan to create steam for bread baking (lesson learned).

Because of the age of the oven, to remove the oven door it was necessary to place “pins” (we use medium screws) into the hole behind the door latches. Then were able to lift off the oven door. (We saw some videos on YouTube)

We placed the oven door on the counter top and removed ALL screws that held the door at the bottom and around the casing - KEEP these screws separate by where you’ve removed them so you replace them into the proper section when you reassemble the door. Each glass you remove has slots that hold them in their proper places. I recommend taking a picture BEFORE you take out each glass as there are brackets that need to go in proper order and you don’t want to forget the order.

We had to flip the door over in order to CAREFULLY remove the casing and access the different inner glass sections (took the opportunity to really clean them). Gathered the broken glass pieces into a paper bag and vacuumed the fragments. Then we were able to place the new interior glass from PartSelect, and reassemble the oven door. It’s perfect!

This took some time most likely because it’s a very old oven and you need to be methodical. I was just glad to be able to get the part - not yet ready to replace the oven.

BTW, originally I was guided to order glass #7 which is one of the inner glass panes that you cannot touch - unless you take apart the oven door - The exchange for the proper door was handled very quickly and easily. Hope this helps.

Pulled the stove out, unscrewed the back and plugged the new thermostat in. Screwed the back back on

Removed the door from oven removed screws from door and replaced the old hinges with new ones perfect match

Since there is multiple glass panels with several brackets, screws and insulation within the oven door I strongly suggest to take photos at each step using your smart phone. Do not attempt to remove all the components at once. Bracket positions, screw locations and glass orientation is necessary. This is the best advice I have to make this a quick and very easy job.

Followed suggestions from prior Customers that had same problem.

Opened overn door and inserted allen wrenchs through the holes in the door hinges. Close the door until it makes contact with the allen wrenchs, then grasp the oven door handle and the bottom of the oven door and lift up to remove the door. Place the door on a flat surface,(I used a bed) and remove the screws to gain access to the glass. Upon re-assesbly, leave door flat line up and re-install all screws before putting the front pannel back on. Insert door back into the oven and open, remove the allen wrenches and close the door. The process is easy and will take 30 minutes to an hour and save you a $100.00 service call!

Several professional appliance repair people told me I had to get a new oven (double, no less!) because "they don't make that hinge anymore." That would have been a $4-5K investment to replace two ovens that both work fine. I'm not generally a DIY person, but was inspired by a FB page I follow called "Handy Women." I got the model number out of my oven, googled "replacement hinge for ____," and found it on this site right away. $120 and about 1 week later I had my hinges. I found this video in the comments on this website that shows (without narration) exactly how to change the hinges.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzQuU2gZYhk
The only mistake I made that cost me some time had to do with the little pins you have to put into the hinge to remove and replace the oven door. They were missing from the old hinges, and it didn't occur to me to use the ones that were in the new hinges (hadn't unboxed when I started.) I used threaded bolts that were the right diameter and length. They slid right in, but then when I went to take them out, it was an ordeal with WD-40 and an Allen wrench. Then it still didn't occur to me to look at the new ones, so I went to the hardware store and bought two more things the right size without threads. Of course when I took the new hinges out of the boxes they already had the little pins in them. Annoying and time consuming rookie mistake, but my oven door now closes just fine, and I'm getting a ridiculous amount of satisfaction from my little repair job!

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.