KAWS750LQ0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Unplug electrical cord, disconnect water inlet hoses and drain line at rear panel. Move washer to garage or larger work area if necessary. Disconnect control panel from top of washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the front corners of the control panel. (The control panel can now be flipped up and back when you are ready to remove the cabinet assembly.) Disconnect the rear panel from cabinet assembly by removing attaching screws at bottom of rear panel (and along the vertical edges if any screws are installed there). Either slightly lift the rear panel up off of the two clip brackets that attach it to the rear top edge of the cabinet assembly, or if need be remove the clips from the cabinet slots. With the rear panel loose, slide the control panel assembly slightly towards the rear and up to disengage it from the cabinet slots, then tip it up and back, away from the cabinet. The cabinet assembly (with top attached) can now be tipped forward and away from washer to expose the internal workings. (It may be necessary to support the rear panel and/or control panel.) The water pump is attached to the front of the motor by two spring clips. Disconnect the two water lines from the pump, then remove the two spring clips. Pull the pump forward off of the shaft extending out of the motor. Install the new pump, then assemble the washer in reverse order. (I was unsure where the leak originated on my washer so I completely removed the rear panel which entailed disconnecting from it the electrical cord fitting, drain and input water fixtures and various other brackets. Pump replacement can be accomplished without completely removing the back panel.)

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

Ordered the part, received part in short time and snapped it on in less than a minute. Seals better than original.
Thanks PartSelect. I will be back.

After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, counterclockwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub.

I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump.

Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver.

During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.

Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt".

I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.

Used your exploded view of the area to determine the problem-found the broken part and reassembled following the drawing. I felt like a pro after a test and kept my wife happy. [only lost a few days waiting for the parts which arrived as expected]

Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:

1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place

2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel

3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel

4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything
that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)

5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine

6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to
leave it standing that is gets you there too.

7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)
in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside

8. you can now remove the broken coupling

9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned

10. replace the coupling

11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!

12. test

simple and easy . Just tipped the machine back, pump was right there in the front.
Hardest part was getting the old pump off the shaft. I used a small block of wood & a large screwdrive to pry it loose (gently).

After it came off I filed off some corroded spots on the shaft before slidding on the new one. then its slid on easy,
Snapped on the clips , clamped on the hoses, Done, Momma's Happy, I'am Happy

Ordering was easy, Shipping was fast.
I will use you again.

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

Watched the video on the website... and did what it said to do. It was VERY helpful... It did not fix the problem... so now I'm on to the next possible solution. Also, provided by the website. The valve was the problem 85% of the time. The water level switch is the problem 10% of the time. The water level switch is what I ordered next.
Ordering is EASY and delivery is fast with available tracking of the shipment. Very nice...! -Eddie Campbell

Removed bolt holding top of agitator, removed top of agitator. Replaced parts. Reinstalled agitator. An old machine now works like a new model.