K9TREFFWMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

You gotta disconnect the power and turn off water remove the shelf the ice maker and everything in freezer take evaporator fan cover off then loosen the 2 upper ice maker bolts and remove the lower icemaker bolt push up on ice maker to remove disconnect plug and remove plate unhook ground then remove the evaporator fan cover then remove the 2 screws holding the back panel in and the trim on the ducting on the bottom of freezer also 2 screws. Then r/r fan and foll this in reverse to re assemble

removed the lower door. took out the old gasket, snap in the new one. piece of cake.

poured boiling hot water into drain; removed most ice with hair dryer. Clips(2) positions the defrost tray & drain under the freezer condenser. A "home-made" coil of 18g copper wire inserted into the drain hole, & secured to the defrost heater further prevents the drain from iceing shut!

Removed the six screws holding the bottom access plate found at the rear of the refrigerator. This gives you easy access to the run capacitor that has a retaining clip. Remove the wire clip and pull out the capacitor (it has two quick disconnect terminals). Reverse the process using the new run capacitor to complete the repair.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

took a voltage check to ensure had 120vac to the motor and did. Ordered new evap fan motor, installed, refrig works as good as ever now. Thanks for your website.

Cut support and replaced. Easy

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.

I found the evapoator iced over and the evaporator fan not working . I tested for voltage on the fan circuits ,found them to be good .ordered the part i needed and repaired the fridge . in the meantime until i recieved my part i put a small fan in the freezer to keep the evaporator form icing over so my food would not spoil .

I followed the instructions in the video on the PartSelect website. The only problem I ran into was that I couldn't switch the grounding tab connector from the original side of the motor to the other. I had to add more wire so that I could reach it in its new location.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.