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Microwave completely stopped working
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
Unpluged power cord!! Removed front control panel to expose electronics (need to remove top horizontal vent cover to expose mounting hardware). Unplugged leads to control panel board. Removed magnetron with Tstat (3- phillip heads, need stubby). Installed new parts and control panel, plugged it in tested. Done.
The door panel and grille vent are plastic and thay both cracked and fell apart due to cheap plastic parts from GE.
Removed the screws at the top of vent and took the vent off and then removed the door by lifting it off the hinge. I had to break the old plastic door frame to get it off, but since it was no good anyway it didnt matter. Then I put the glass in the new frame put the handle on it and snapped the frame on to the door and put it back on the door hinge and then put the new vent on and screwed it down and closed the door. Job was not to hard at all.
1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.
The repair man said this would not be covered under my home warranty and that it would cost too much for him to fix, so he showed me what to do, I ordered the part and did it myself. I just had to gently pry the tabs up on the inside of the door panel using a putty knife. Once the latch is visible you unhook it from a clip and a little spring. Attached the spring onto replacement latch and snap back into place, snap the tab of the door panel back in place and your done.
Broken Glass Cooking Tray after running our 43' Fithwheel down the world famous Deals Gap -- Tail of the Dragon
After picking up glass from one end of the trailer to the other, this thing must have exploded because we are still finding glass! 1.) Open microwave door 2.) Insert Glass Tray 3.) Close microwave door
Now if it was that easy to replace the ground off fiberglass on my end cap!
Suddenly had no heat. All else worked fine. A deep odd hum sound.
This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
1)Removed upper vent bezel. 2)Lifted door off hinges. 3)Using putty knife, pried off inner trim ring. 4)Remove two screws securing handle. 5)Ease open clips and remove radiation screen. 6)Remove outer glass from frame. (very easy, as door had broken in one corner) 7)Reverse order. (when installing outer glass into frame, the frame must be carefully bent/pried to enable the retaining clips to clear the glass)
First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.
I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.
After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!
Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.
took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel