JVM1533WD - Instructions

Removed outer cover

removed lower door switch

installed new switch

Wa La!

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Check with Digital meter all connections.Find a Thermostat open loop.This thermostat is near the Megatron .

Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.

well I unplugged the microwave one day prior to working on it. shock precaution smart way to do this job. very easy pullout the screws behind the unit pull off the outer casing. minor screws inside the unit you have to remove a couple things out of the way. unplug the magnetron and remove first gives you more room to work on the side panel to replace the micro switches. I only replaced one the bottom micro switch. only one bad, but since I was in there I clean the bulb and changed the magnetron any ways. I read other reviews and made my choice to do so. it works perfectly now. Thanks PartSelect for having parts.

The burned remnant of the coupler was a bit difficult to remove. I did so with a pliers and also used the pliers to clear out some burned fragments of the coupler. With a flashlight I determined that the slot for the coupler was now clear. I matched the configuration of the slot with that of the new coupler and it slid immediately into place with no difficulty whatever.

The tray came within 5 days and I simply took it out of its well-packaged box and slipped it into my microwave. It is working just like new. I can't thank you all for being so punctual and reliable. better than having to buy a brand new microwave.

Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I had already removed the old grease filters. Unwrapped the new grease filters and popped into place. No tools were necessary.

turning two old screws out holding broken piece with needle nose plyers while turnning the philips screw is straight forward BUT getting at the screws is somewhat difficult. The black frame on the inside of the door over the screws must be pried out of the door to allow access to the screw heads. This black frame is held in place by compression and there is no place to begin prying it out other than with a very thin object like a kitchen spatula or very thin putty knife, only pry out 20% over the screws.It would be nice if extra screws were included with the handle as YOU WILL DROP at least one.

After checking all three switches for continuity I determined that the plastic door lever had warped or gone out of wack. After shutting off power at the breaker box I removed the door, the inside trim piece around the inside of the glass. Removed the black two prong door lever, reattached the new door lever and then reinstalled the trim piece and all screws. Works fine now. Easy fix just make sure your switches are all ok then replace the door lever.

Unplugged the microwave. I opened the door. I used a butter knife to pop the bezel off the inside of the door. I pushed the locker up and to the left and used the butter knife to pry it loose. Disconnected the locker from the spring, and reversed for the installation.

WORTHLESS...I EMAILED YOU ON 2/7/22 AFTER RECEIVING THE DAMAGED FILTER DUE TO NOT SHIPPING IN A HARD OR SOMETHING IN THE ENVELOPE TO PROTECT THE FILTER FROM BEING BENT.
I HAVE NOT HAD ANY RESPONSE FROM YOU FOR THE DAMAGED FILTER OR WHEN I CAN EXPECT ONE THAT I CAN USE.
UNSATISIFACTORY SERVICE!

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

Followed owners manual instructions to the letter: removed two top screws, opened the unit door so I could slide out the old filter. We don’t cook much at all in the unit, mostly just heating coffee and reheating leftovers. BUT! The top grill was pretty greasy and needed hot soapy water to clean, including in the depths of the top area. The whole process, especially the company website for part ID and purchase, was slick!