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Door Handle Broke
Removed a screw that was visible and used a knife to remove a plastic seal/trim from the inside of the door and around the glass of the door, just enough to expose 2nd screw, replace handle, and replace seal back. Lest than 5 minutes.
Removed one screw, slid frame out and removed broken glass. replaced bulb. The hard part was slidding the frame back in place and starting the screw. We were very surprised at the fast delivery of the parts, thank you. The sad part, a few days later the glass broke again. We are trying to get to the people at GE to solve our problem. We feel like that will not happen, we just do not have the time to stay on hold on the phone waiting for someone to solve our problem. Will reorder glass.
UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE
Handed the part to my son. He unscrewed 5 screws in the base of the microwave, it dropped down. The light mechanism was clearly in view. With the exception of some corrosion on the old piece, it was simple to remove and replace, put back together, screw back up and all worked fine.
Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!
Imagine the surprise on my daughter's face when she went to open the microwave and the handle broke in half! I called multiple places locally, and ten days was the soonest I could find the part. I went online and ordered from PartSelect....three days later we were back in business. Good job, guys! And I installed it myself! A single mom from Texas
Pry out plastic flange on inside of door...exposing to two screws (top of handle/bottom of handle) that attached plastic handle to oven door. Removed the two screws and discarded broken handle.. Placed new handle on outside of door and replaced the two screws that secure handle to door. Snapped inside flange cover in place... Repair completed... 15 minutes...
removed visble screw. Then lifted the inside door rim around the glass to reveal the hidden screw. Removed that screw and replaced broken handle with new handle and screwed it in place. Replace part of rim that was lifted to reveal the hidden screw.
The old door frame had a total break at the lower right corner.
First I removed the inner snap seal to expose the lower screw to the handle. Once the handle was removed the outer frame came off. I then installed the new frame and the handle and replaced the inner snap seal. Nothing to it.
Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.
GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.
