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Aluminum Foil Bonded With Bottom
It was much easier than trying to remove the bonded aluminum foil from the false bottom/drip pan. Simply lift and remove oven front door, (see your manual), slide out false bottom and slide in new. For me it did take longer than 15 minutes, but that's because I was doing a thorough oven cleaning. The part was in the $50 range and well worth it. Why didn't anyone ever tell me that you can no longer line the bottom of your oven with aluminum foil?
Seal worn on corner allowing heat to escape, sensor not reading the correct temperature
Spring clips installed on seal just pull off door. New clips get inserted in mounting holes and are pushed in to seat in door. Seal ends slide into door holes.
Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.
Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.
After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.
Suddenly had no heat. All else worked fine. A deep odd hum sound.
This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
After closing door the display panel must be tapped on to keep the unit operating.
The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.
Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.
took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel
All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.
After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.
Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again
When you open the door at the start the fan wood come on
I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it
