JNM1541DM1BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Googled problem, removed diode, checked with meter and it was open, ordered new diode, checked new diode and it read open, installed. Any way, it didn't work. Went and bought new microwave!!

A 2 yr old could do this snap out. Snap in less then. 30 seconds . What a shame and rip off on appliance repair shops - I called to do this rediculsley 40 second job and the wantvv$125.00!9t more. Omg. I’m a senior/ no wonder God punished the world wit Covid 19! Too many nasty infair. Buii I needed and rip offs.

Multimeter checked/confirmed switches, sensors, and fuse first. All good. High power diode was bad - Replaced. Still no heat but now loud "MMMMM" noise when running. This means either the capacitor is also bad and/or magnetron.

removed cover over motor blew it out of leaves and dust. Removes 4 screws and removed piece ordered. The coil was rusted and not connecting. Changed oiece its working again

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Had to buy bigger screws to keep it from breaking again!

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

Turntable shaft was worn and out of shape likely due to heat. Simply remove rotating glass and damaged plastic shaft underneath. Replace with new shaft.

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

I opened it up, found there is sparks on the diode when cooking, I replaced the diode first, still no heat, I found all the switches and thermal stats were normal, there is 120V AC input to the transformer, so I tried to make a good guess and bought a Magnetron from Partselect, after I installed the new Magnetron, there is heat and the microwave is working.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order