Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Temp Sensor not working - Oven Overheating
If doing this for the first time, it's harder to replace than described by others.
Start by removing the oven door. Reach in to unscrew the two screws that hold the sensor in place on the back wall of the oven. I was working on the upper oven of a double wall oven and found it more comfortable to sit on a tall bar stool while working. Pull the sensor partially out and you will see the connector wire running through the sensor opening. The sensor connector plug is too deep into the oven to reach with fingers or any tool. Next unscrew the 6" round heat circulator fan just below the sensor on the back wall of the oven. Pull the fan partially out and you will see the plug for the temp sensor directly behind. You may have to push some of the insulation of out of way. Unplug the old sensor and pull it back out directly through the sensor opening. Take the new sensor and thread it in through the opening and plug it in. Reinstall the circulator fan and then screw the new sensor in place. This should complete the temp sensor replacement.
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Removed case, Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan. Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor. Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
My part arrived the next day. That was a surprise to receive it that quick. I removed the lower panel to gain access to the motor. Disconected the 2 electrical leads and removed the 2 screws that held the motor in position. Installed the new motor, reconnected the leads and reinstalled the lower panel. It was a very easy reapair. I took all of 10 minutes to complete. I will definately use Parts Select the next time I need a repair part for any appliance. Great service
Sensor went out after fire in oven fault code 1b11
I removed the 2 screws holding the sensor in the back of the oven and pulled the wires out. The connector got hung up in the insulation. Rather than pulling too hard, I loosened up the heating element plate and screws and pulled the whole plate out an inch or so so I could work the connector through the insulation. I forgot to shut off the power. When I put the sensor on, I got the same error. I briefly shut off the power at the breaker and turned it back on. The clock on the oven did not reset. It still didn't work. So I took the whole thing out, shut off the power, reconnected it, turned the power back on, reset the clock, and it worked! Should have turned the power off first and I wouldn't have had to do it twice.
Once you figure out how to pop the little clips that lock the hinges in place this is not a difficult repair. But, it is tedious due to all the screws on the door.
Fold the door down and look for the tabs on the clips just above the hinge connections. You should able to push the tabs back and down with your fingers. If they are stuck use a flat blade screw driver or pair of pliers. Lift the door straight up and pull back. The hinges may pop (loud) while doing this. Set the door on the floor and proceed to remove the inner door by unscrewing all the sheet metal and machine screws. Lift the inner door out and the two hinges are accessible on either side. There are two black machine screws on the bottom of the inner door that hold each hinge in place. Unscrew those and the hinges come right out. Take the same black machine screws and use them to cut the threads into the new hinges. Remove the screws and install the new hinges. Use the black machine screws to attach the new hinges to the inner door. Reinstall the inner door to the outer. Lift the door assembly back in place on the hinge connectors at the oven. Then, don't forget to push the locking tabs back in place. The hinge replacement is complete.
I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.
I tryed to remove the sensor from the oven by removing the screws inside the oven. Unfortunatly, the plug for the sensor would not reach the inside of the oven. I had to remove the oven from the wall and remove the back cover to ac3ess the sensor wiring. After that it was a snap.
Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!
1. Order correct light bulb for unit and have it with you before removing old lightbulb. My Microwave is built into cabinet. 2. Disconnect power (Either turn breaker off or unplug unit from wall) 3. Remove face cover on cabinet. (4 Phillips head screws) I was able to reach in the opening in the cabinet and unplug from the wall. 4. Remove Phillip head screws holding microwave in cabinet. 5. Remove microwave from cabinet. 6. Remove Phillip head screws and torx screws holding outside cover on the back of unit and the side (1 on right side) and then remove cover. Light bulb is on the top front right side. 7. Remove 1 philip head screw holding light bulb and unplug quick connector wires. 8. Plug quick connector into new light bulb same way it came out and place new light bulb in place and put the 1 philips head screw holding it back in place. 9. Put cover back on and all the screws. Temporary plug the unit in to test light bulb works before securing it back into cabinet. 10. Reverse order 5,4,Plug unit in wall before putting the face back on. Done.
