JJW9627AAQ Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

This is the simplest repair in the world! A lot of money for the part but worth every penny! Looks like a new oven. Far better than spending $4000.00 on a new double oven

Part was perfect fit. Good product, good value, great service.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Switched off power !
Removed the control panel by removing four philips screws under the panel. marked all the connectors with a permanent markers (socket & cable) to be able to identify the right direction. Removed the old clock assembly by removing 4 hex screws.
Then assembled new unit and reversed steps...
Clock and oven temperature is again readable and very bright!
initially I got a replacement part that showed the same error as the original part, but this unit was replaced within one (!) day under the Partselect warranty plan. Good job!

Opened breaker feeding power to oven

Removed 4 screws on underside of front panel; display module is attached to back side of panel.

Unplugged wiring harness from panel circuit boards and display module. Set panel face down on towel to keep from scratching it.

Removed 2 screws holding display to panel

Replace module and re-attached to panel

Plugged harnesses back in

Re-attached panel

Turn on breaker. Done.

Ordered new display module. Very fast delivery. Removed top anel of oven (5 screws) and display (4 screws) and replaced module. Very easy and fast repair.

Thanks to this web site, I discovered that this problem is very common with this oven.

Followed the instructions posted.

4 screws under the top of door need to be removed.

Pull display cover up and then simply unplug the 3 wire sets

Remove old display with the 4 nuts and replace

Plug back in and replace and you are good to go.

Appears a very common problem and a design problem with this display.

The total repair time was less than 5 minutes. I turned off the circut breaker to my oven. Directions were very easy, remove 4 screws, take plugs off old unit, place them on new unit, remove 4 screws with nut driver, place new clock in place and put the screws back in. Go out and turn on power to oven. Set the clock.