JGS968SEK1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I ordered the spark module and replaced it which was veru simple, plugged it in and it sparked only now and again. I finally said forget it and it has now stopped sparking but for how long I do not know.

reinstalled new one. just a little better than than the warped one.

No response from GE website (very disappointing). google "repair GE gas range igniter" and very simple step-by-step instructions...apparently is very common with GE appliances...even mine that was less than 14 months old. Service tech would have charged $300. Did it myself for $80

remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in

Read the experience of others on this website with the same problem. I knew exactly what to expect and it all went as the dozen previous oven repair experts had said. I can add my name to the list of experts. The two screws attaching the igniter to the bracket twisted off exactly like everyone else experienced. GE really should look at developing a better attachment. My only problem was because my drill was larger than the bottom of the oven. I had to drill the holes on an angle. One of the holes was wallowed out more than the other. I had to use two different size screws and they were more difficult to screw in. Bottom line; I saved money, the oven works, my wife is happy, so I'm happy.

Ordered by phone parts & very pleased with all of transaction.

Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.

After reading reviews about corroded screws causing difficult removal I sprayed penetrating oil prior to installing replacement part. The oven doesn't need to be pulled out to fix. Just carefully pull wires through hole until the locking plug is visible & swap out. Very easy repair.

Owners manual provided no help. Thankfully, the internet did. Internet convinced me the problem was the igniter, and with hindsight that was correct. 30 mins on the net to troubleshoot. On my model, the oven door must be removed to remove the bottom splash shield. Internet to the rescue to show how to remove the oven door. 10 minutes on the 'net, 30 seconds to remove door. Heat shield came out in about a minute. First machine screw that secures the igniter to mounting bracket out in 45 seconds. Second machine screw stripped in two wrench turns. Since the location of the mounting bracket was a cramped space (in a "well"), had to hand hold a hacksaw blade to cut off the head of the stripped machine screw. With only 3/4" of possible travel, this took 90 minutes. Then drill out the remaining shaft of the stripped fastener. The new igniter went in no problem and I used sheet metal screws to reaffix the unit. From what I've seen on the 'net, cheap fasteners that strip is a common fault on GE appliances.

pulled out appl,removed door,racks,lifted oven bottom to remove,removed both oven and broiler ignitors---went to back of appl to remove gas control valve and replaced--used old oven ignitor in broiler(took chance it would work-it did!)installed new ignitor in oven--tested perfectly--point of info if you have an oversize or dancing flame in oven or broiler--remove flame tube and with 1/2 inch open wrench tighten orfice all the way until it stops--don't force or over tighten-- (the air shutter should open all the way)--flame should be about an 1 inch with white tips--adjust as needed-overall repair including adjustments took about an hour-hope this helps--and i'm not a professional repairman

Replaced burner gaskets.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.

put it in but it keeps falling out. they're made narrower than my oven grate.

Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.

Instead of trying to remove ignitor while mounted to burner, I removed burner/ignitor assembly by detaching it from the oven frame and pulling the ignitor/burner assembly out so connector cleared the access hole. Disconnected and removed whole assembly. Then had easy access to the mounting screws. Removed screws by first spraying threads with WD 40 and waiting. Screws were oxidized so they were damaged when backing them out, as were the threaded mounting holes in the burner ignitor bracket. The screws are not sheet metal as noted in other posts, but rather are 10-32 machine screws. I chased the ignitor mounting bracket threads, then remounted the ignitor with 10-32, 3/8's, cap head, stainless bolts with a stainless star washer (available at any ACE hardware or other similar store) -- that way you don't have to tighten up so tight (just snug them up) -- unless you expect an earthquake every other week. The stainless screws helps retard the corrosion brought on by high heat and any moisture that settles on the bolt threads as the system cools and with subsequent starts.