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Oven would not light
Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.
1. Removed oven door. 2. Removed shelves. 3. Removed oven bottom. 4. Removed pan drawer. 5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening. 6. Removed top burner nut. 7. Pulled igniter out from top. 8. Snipped igniter wires. 9. Removed igniter from burner 10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts. 11. Attached new igniter to burner. 12. Replaced burner. 13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer. 14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer. 15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner 16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.
Very simple repair, removed the back plate, took off the 4 screws holding the controler panel on, swapped over the wires one at a time, and reinstalled. Less than 15 min total time.
bought new panel and installed and looking @ wire connections from old control, I'm very much mechanically inclined , so was a breeze for me, but non handy people may not know how to disassemble the control panel without not having an idea how it's made. I'm a "mr fix it", "jack of all trades" kinda guy and am proud of it.
Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.
I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.
The part was very easy to switch out but it made no difference whatsoever so I returned it. The way it is designed is the problem. There is a pie slice shaped gap on the burner which causes a gap of no flame. Also a C shaped cut out around the igniter which causes another no flame gap.
Unplugged the electrical.Removed the door, removed the oven racks and removed the bottom pan. Removed the wire nuts from the two wires. Removed the burner tube. Removed the Igniter. Installed in reverse order. It was very easy however it was the third igniter that I had to replace in this range so I was used to it.
18 year old gas range, just replaced oven igniter, and tried repairing burner igniter
I replaced the oven igniter, discovered the floor of the oven had rusted through, so I replaced that as well. The burner on top of the stove would not light as it was designed, and because the 12 screws that hold the range top and burners in place were rusted in place I ended up buying a new range because removing the screws on the burners proved impossible, even when I tried to drill them out with a lefthanded screw removal tool. I should have just kept lighting the burner that would not light, with a match. That was a repair too far, that forced me to buy a new GE Range and throw this one in the trash. The igniter, oven floor replacement was easy. The burner igniter after 18 years proved impossible. .I installed the 18 yr. old burner grates on the new range, but the drip pans would not fit the new stove. New GE Range instructions were near useless. Do Not trust them, especially the Orifice change details NG to LPG.
the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part
Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.