JGBP29MEL2BS General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.

Too easy a five year old could do it

Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.

I just put everything on it and lighted match and problem solved! Easy fix!

I replaced the oven igniter, discovered the floor of the oven had rusted through, so I replaced that as well. The burner on top of the stove would not light as it was designed, and because the 12 screws that hold the range top and burners in place were rusted in place I ended up buying a new range because removing the screws on the burners proved impossible, even when I tried to drill them out with a lefthanded screw removal tool. I should have just kept lighting the burner that would not light, with a match. That was a repair too far, that forced me to buy a new GE Range and throw this one in the trash. The igniter, oven floor replacement was easy. The burner igniter after 18 years proved impossible. .I installed the 18 yr. old burner grates on the new range, but the drip pans would not fit the new stove. New GE Range instructions were near useless. Do Not trust them, especially the Orifice change details NG to LPG.

the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.

Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.

Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

Removed the drawer at the bottom of the stove, then removed plate in rear covering the wires. unplugged the 2 wires coming from Igniter, then removed 2 1/4" srews holding the ignitor in place, took the old Ignitor and cut the 2 wires and spliced them to the new Ignitor reinstalled the new Ignitor in reverse order of removal. Saved over $110.00.