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two of the burners were not working at all, the other two were blackening pots and pans
I turned off the gas flow to the appliance, removed the old oriface spuds with the adjustable wrench, inserted the new oriface spuds and tightened them with the adjustable wrench. The double burner assembly just dropped on. They fit perfectly. I did not have to use the leveling nuts that were included with the burners. The old levelers were still in place and set perfectly for the new burners. Very easy repair, and the range works like a new one.
Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.
0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven. 1) removed oven door (no tools required) 2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out) 3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer) 4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver 5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter. 6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job. 7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine. 8) Reverse steps above to install.
The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.
After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.
Burners were burning the pans and flames coming out at all different angles of the burner
The toughest part of the repair was the preparation to remove the old burners. As a result of the burning there was a carbon residue on the burners, on the gas outlet feed to the burners. This took some scrubbing and removing the carbon residue. Bits had burned onto the outlet and had to be scrapped off. Once all cleaned, replacing the burners was easy just had to place the balancing nuts in place and put on the burners. One problem arose the hood of the stove did not go back in place after replacing the burners so I then removed the balancing nuts put back on the burners stove top hood fit back in place and burners operated properly. This part of the repair took five minutes.
First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.
I ordered a new display from the internet. I removed the panel where the display is housed, unscrewed the entire display assembly and unplugged all wires connecting it. (I made a drawing and noted colors of wires) I removed adhesive face of display and replaced it on the new display. I then screwed in the display and reconnected the wires as per my notes. I reassembled the panel and applied power and it worked like new.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino
First I removed the back panel and then removed the four screws that hold the display board in place.I then disconnected the wires. I installed the new board and connected the wires. I put the back panel on. I installed a serge protector and pluged in the range. Job completed and it worked.
