JES9800BAF Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

My wife called a service company and was told that a tech would have to inspect the stove.
service charge 60.00 After inspection the parts would be orderd and a 200 fee for labor plus the parts would be charged at the completeion of the job. 2 weeks for part. I found you on the net orderd the glass. got it in 2 days and I completed the repair in 20 mins. Cost 89.00

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

Easy repair with Phillips screw driver and needle nose pliers. 1. Turn off Breakers or unplug range, Open oven door and remove the two screws holding the glass top to the oven frame. 2. Slide glass top forward and remove the two electrical connectors at the rear of the glass top, one on each side. 3. Remove the Phillips screw holding the ground wire from the rear top flange of the glass top. 4. Glass top can now be removed and placed glass side down on a padded flat table top. 5. Take a few pictures of the wiring and brackets for reassembly reference. 6. Remove the 4 wires from the defective heating element with needle nose pliers (note locations for reassembly to the new element) 7. Remove the Phillips screw on the rear side of the bracket holding the defective element. Carefully lift off the bracket. 8. Heating element can now be removed. 9. Remove the locating flanges from the defective element and install on the new element in the same locations. Clean glass if necessary and place new element on glass. 10. Carefully locate the flange tangs into the same holes on the bracket, reference photos or other side for locations. Ensure small element bracket was replaced in mounting slot of large bracket and reattach bracket screw. 11. Replace wires to same locations, remove and lightly pinch connectors if they appear loose, then reassemble. 12. Replace glass top on range, reconnect the two electrical connectors and ground wire, slide forward and replace the two mounting screws. 13. Restore power and check new element for function. Extension wires which came with the new element were not needed in this application. Total repair time about 20 min.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio

I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account

I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.

Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

Clearly, the oven gasket was not the cause of the problem.
The hinge replacements did not fix the problem. I think the problem was that the hinge's mating part inside the door had been deformed, perhaps by leaning on the door when fully opened. I compensated for that by placing two stacked magnets near the upper hinge mounting screw hole on the inside of the oven body. (0.75" screws , 8-24 or metric equiv., needed for the upper screw location.) This gave the hinge about 15 degrees of additional door tilting force. In addition, I added 6 ceramic magnets across the top of the door mating surface, kudos to that website. Now it pulls fully flush with the magnets.
Ceramic magnets are good to 400+ degrees and they come in boxes of 120 for $12.00.
I only had one oven as a sample, but I could see what I thought was deformation on the inside of the oven door where the hinges are inserted. In this case, I think that makes (only) hinge replacement futile.
Sorry if this solution does not fit your marketing desire, but I did leave the new hinges installed.

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

Should have been under the 'very easy' category, unscrew 2 screws, pull out old element, disconnect wires, reconnect new wires and screw back in. Unfortunately the right wire disconnected while pulling out the element, so I had to pull the the stove out, disconnecting vents in the process, then remove the back to be able to feed the wire back in thru the element hole . While back here I noticed that the reason the wire came off is that the way it was routed behind the stove cover was such that there was virtually no slack to be able to pull the element out in the first place. I'll bet that at the factory, the element was installed first, THEN the wires were connected. Whoever was on the line that day made extra sure of no slack in back, and that made the job take 5-6 times longer than it should have. As for the part replacement, it was a perfect match to the original part so it was super easy once the wire got back in the oven...

Easy peasy...1. Take 2 screws out to remove the back cover. 2. Unplug the 2 wires from the element. 3. Remove the 2 screw holding the element from inside the oven and take out the old element. Repeat the steps above in reverse order.