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intermittent operation then completely stopped
Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge. With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.
I assumed light was burned out and got a replacement bulb. Removed back and side screws with slight difficulity. Was not able to remove cover. The top front would not loosen. I tried every trick in my 80 year repertoire. I gave up and put it back together. I emailed PartSelect last week explaining the problem. So far no reply. I am sure I have the right model # and others seem to have little trouble removing the cover. I paid $85 + tax for the oven and it has worked well for about 8(?) years. From what I read here, I figured I could handle the bulb replacement. I'm just out the cost of the bulb and shipping and the oven still works. It would have been nice to have the light work again but we will just wait until it quits working and buy another inexpensive unit.
-unplug -remove top and front covers -unplug wire connectors from heating assembly -remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way -remove metal stand from dry -pull out heating assembly -install new one in reserve order
I used a phillips screw driver and a special type bit to undo the screws from the cabinet and found the light bulb and took the old one out and put the new one in and put it back together.
Door Switch went bad, Internal Fan would run every time you open the door
Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.
First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Microwave not turning on. All other functions operate
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor Leave unplugged overnight Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel GOOD LUCK
Turntable Stopped Working/Display Timer Would Countdown But Not Heat
With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!
Remove the top of the microwave, regular phillips screws on sides, torque screws on back. Lift up back and slide off cover. Light bulb socket is easily detached and bulb unplugged and replaced. Slide cover from back lifted slightly so lip will slide into front of microwave, than replace screws. Be sure to unplug microwave before you start.
I previously replaced the turning motor because the gears in the old one were stripped. However, the new motor did not fix the problem. Upon examining the 3 wheels of the rotating ring guide, I noticed that there were flat spots on the wheels. When the motor tried to turn the ring, the wheels did not turn, but dragged, thus causing a major friction that eventually stripped the gears of the motor. Fortunately, I diagnosed the problem before the gears of my new motor were ruined. Replacing the rotating ring guide immediately fixed the problem.
I opened the door reached in give a steady pull up on the part it came out,I put the new one in pushed it down into place Bingo job completed Thank you
