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Blown fuse in microwave
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row. 1. Unplug device. 2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet. 3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover. 4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place. 5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws. 6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3). 7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.
First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!
Removed the back plate, removed the old motor and re-attached the new motor and the back plate. Took about 5 minutes. Works great. Lesson learned - DON'T let your spagetti boil over.
Pretty simple but required buying a set of security bits (#68549) from Harbor Freight for $7.00 to remove the outer cover of my GE JES2051SNSS microwave. At first glance I thought the cover would remove by going towards the front of the microwave, but it ended up just needing a tug to the rear. I like this site because they have pictures of the exploded appliances that show what your getting into.
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
Removed cover discharged the capacitor and looked around for obvious signs of component failure. Then began testing switches and sensors finding flame sensor closed. Did a bypass and all cylinders fired. Part needed no longer available. Located your part with almost exact working values and installed it. Hopefully will get another 12+ years of service. I have used you folks in the past and will in the future. Thanks
Opened door to get food put more food in closed door it wouldnt work
Everything worked on the display light inside worked but when you closed the door and set time it would start counting down but not heating nor would the turntable turn. Started reading troubleshooting chart and first thing I did was removed the cover and checked door switches and found primary door switch wasn't working so I ordered a new one installed it and it worked. Anyone doing this has to be very careful because of the stored energy in the capacitor is strong enough to kill. My micro is only 2 years old so I was hoping it wasn't anything major.
I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
I over-cooked something in my microwave and melted the rotating tray assembly
I jumped on line and found the exact part at PartSelect, ordered it and it came about three days later. I dropped it in and turned it on to test and it was perfect! I never even had to tell my wife!
Would not heat and made a buzzing or popping sound
Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.
To remove the outer cover of the microwave you have to unscrew 7 or 8 Phillips screws but most of them have "secure" type heads, so you need a driver with a hole in the middle, to fit over the pin on the screw head. I had one of those already, so it wasn't a problem. The metal cover is slid between rubberized strips on the front face of the enclosure and needs to be lifted and tugged out quite firmly in order to release it. Once the cover was removed, the bulb can be seen attached to the main frame of the microwave by a soft metal lug that can be bent back by hand to release the bulb and its integrated holder. The wiring harness simply pulls off of the bulb prongs and there you have the charred remains of the original bulb! I tried every appliance store and hardware store in Bismarck, but nobody had this part. When I typed in the serial number on the bulb, Partselect's site came up with exactly what I needed. Replacement was a simple reversal of the process, making sure not to over-tighten the sheet metal screws on the cabinet. Voila! We have light beams again. Thanks Partselect.
unplug oven from power remove glass turntable remove cabinet housing remove burnt out bulb order correct part reinstall new bulb reattach cabinet housing install glass turntable plug into power outlet confirm light bulb on
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
