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Oven bake element not working
Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.
Bought bottom element as suggested. Instruction video seemed straight forward. Not exactly.When I unscrewed the element and gently pulled it out to access the connector, one came out an inch or two, however the left side would not slide out. Tugged a little and it released the connector which jumped back inside the oven. Had to slide the oven out from counter, remove a rear covering plate (2 screws and no problem) and found the new element connectors protruded through the rear of the stove for connection. They were covered by the large rear plate I had removed. Screwed the plate back on and, slid the stove back into position, restored power and all was good. Stove heats properly. Happy.
light would stay on all the time saying burner was on although it wasn`t
unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all
Pull out the range...hardest part. Remove back panel. Remove/install switch PS, This is second switch I had to replace. Try making them in the United States.
After watching the instructional video (and flipping the breaker to my range) it was straight forward and simple. The heating element was a little bent so didn’t originally sit square/flat to the bottom of the oven so I uninstalled, bent it gently a little and reinstalled and it set down flat. It still didn’t take 15 minutes.
Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
Front 8" burner stuck on high no matter where dial was set.
This range was easy. Only 4 screws under the front panel that allows the panel to come off. No need to pull the range out for back screws.
Replacement part was exact and worked perfect.
Turn off the circuit breaker for the range.
Remove the 4 screws under the front panel, one on each end and one one each side of the display/control panel.
Pull the bottom of the front panel out about 30 degrees and lift off the top.
Once panel is off pull of the dial knob, remove the two screws for the control and swap wires on at a time with the new one.. Reverse the procedure and all is good. You may need to use needle nosed pliers on the spade connectors if they are too tight to pull off by hand.
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.
Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back and watching new bake element heat up.
Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
The oven glass shattered when I dropped water in the heated Glass
I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order.. The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!
Bake Element shorted out, burned out hi-limit switch
-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker. -Removed oven door and racks. -Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall. -Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads. -Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.) -Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position. -Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire. -Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws. -Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat. -Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure. -Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch. -Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short. -Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select -Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads. -Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall. -Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally. -Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
the lower baking element of the oven did a 4th of July sparkler show coming right out of the oven door three days before Thanksgiving
I had the part overnighted since Thanksgiving was in two days and we needed to be able to use the oven. I saw a video on the website that instructed how to unplug the stove. Unscrew the baking element from the inside of back wall of oven. Gently pull out the part to where it is attached to wires. Simply pull apart the male part from female parts. Replace the old element with new element and attach it to the pulled out wires. Then gently push back wires inside the back wall of oven. Screw the attachment back in. We then plugged the oven back in. Turned on the oven to about 300 degrees. We put an oven temperature gauge inside and after a time the oven temperature was at 300 degrees and steady. It was fixed. Thanksgiving was on!
