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old, crusty drip pans
This was so easy. I've looked for years in stores for these pans. I finally tried the Internet, found PartSelects and, holding my breath at what i'd find, voila'...perfect fit, perfect replacements. And it took just a couple days to arrive. I'll definately be back! /John
Did not need tools for this job. Simply lift burner element and remove old drip pan and put new one in its place. However - the drip pans that were shipped only fit on the left side of the range. The right side, where the grill attachment goes, is so shallow that the drip pans on that side hit the bottom plate beneath the burner element and would not let the element go down far enough to seat properly. I kept the two pans that don't fit for extras, but I still need shallower pans to fit on the right side.
A local repair shop informed the individual that the burner unit could not be repaired and she would have to replace the cooktop..
After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.
Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.
Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.
Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!
Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!
Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.
If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.
Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!
Flip the breaker. Lift off the fan center grate. Remove two screws located on back of the burner dials housing. Lift the back of the housing, then pull this gently away from the front to unhook the front. Turn this over, locate the switch. Pull the three electrical plug connections from the switch plastic housing, remembering their locations. Back off the two nuts holding the switch to the underneath side of the dials housing. Place the new one in place, put it all back together.
I got the switch wired correctly, with much cussing. It worked - burner heated. But I couldn't get the new switch to fit back with the old ones neatly enough to close the box and secure it. Got help from someone with stronger hands but still couldn't get it to fit. On top of that I found that the new knobs didn't fit on the new switch - or even on the old switches. The old knob didn't fit on the new switch either. I gave up. Removed the new switch and took out the corresponding burner. Still have 3 burners that work. Repair folks had warned me that I couldn't get parts. They didn't say that it would look like there was a replacement part but it wouldn't fit!
It is so easy. Once I found the right size of filter from the website, I ordered it right away. It came in 3 days and I just need to take out the old one and insert the new one. No instruction is necessary. By the way, the price of the filter is one third of that from Jenn-air.
The old switch became brittle with age and broke. There were two plastic cylinders that held a spring loaded bearing to operate the contact point. It became brittle because of age and it broke.
I first turned off the power to the range. The switch was housed inside a control panel in the front center part of the range. Two screws were removed and the housing was lifted forward and then off The switch was held in place by metal friction washers. Those were removed by a screwdriver and then the switch slide off the posts that they were attached to. The switch had two wires and I simply replaced the wires onto the new switch and placed the switch back onto the posts. The friction washers were pressed back over the posts to hold the switch in place and then the housing was screwed back into place.
