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Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
the TCO is a temperature fuze on the side of the exhaust outlet. When the exhaust registers too high a heat temperature the fuze blows and stops the entire unit from working.
I replaced the TCO (fuze) through the vent opening after removing the vent cover and several small panels with a screw driver for visible access.. Some of the screws require a small offset screwdriver because of the limited access. I did not have to drop the unit from the wall over the range and was able to access through the vent opening to replace to failed TCO with a new one. The TCO is wired in-line with the power and other fuses to the unit and when it fails the enitire unit is cold with no power to lights or function of any kind. The GE service rep. said that the unit needed a new smart board but that was not the problem and they are no longer made for the older unit. I discovered the repair by looking at YouTube for repairs for the GE Advantium 120 microwave/convection combo unit.
Glass tray somehow got a nick in the edge, a few days later it split while in use.
Another company said the new plate would arrive in mid-March, this company seemed to be faster so ordered the tray here, and it came in less than a week. I put the turn button back in the center hole, set the wheeled ring on the bottom of the oven, fitted the new glass tray onto the turn button.
Phillips screws out of the side; torx screws out of the bottom/back and slide the cover off of the back. The light is not visible but not hard to find: on the top left side mounted on a black plastic base with 1 phillips screw & stud holds other side. You can tell what the base looks like from the new part. GE probably wants you to call them to make the $-ha. Stay clear of any capacitors (shock) or chips (short) & touch the chassis to ground or if a tech, wear a ground strap.
removed micro from cabinet, took off top piece and bottom piece, took off top and side piece to get to bulb. Removed bulb, replaced. Like someone said the engineers at GE should get an award for making an easy job very difficult.
Door Switch went bad, Internal Fan would run every time you open the door
Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.
First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Not heat
-unplug -remove top and front covers -unplug wire connectors from heating assembly -remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way -remove metal stand from dry -pull out heating assembly -install new one in reserve order
removed cover over motor blew it out of leaves and dust. Removes 4 screws and removed piece ordered. The coil was rusted and not connecting. Changed oiece its working again