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after 3-4 minutes microwave display would blink and unit would just cut out.
This was the second time I've had to open up the microwave. 1st time display would blank out but system would continue to operate. Found solder connections on board to LED display were defective. Resoldered and unit was fine. This time I found the connection to the oven cavity temp cut-off was bad, plastic connection cover melted. When unit operated bottom lead and wire would heat up. Couldn't measure a Discernable distance so either wire or connector connection surface was not sufficient to carry the current. 1st replaced sensor still wire heated up. Replaced connector and there was no sign how heat from resistances.
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
Door sensor switch went bad. Microwave would not operate.
Watched a couple of repair videos on Youtube by searching for the model number. Found out what to do in order not to get shocked by the powerful capacitor. Ordered the two switches (To be sure, I could have ordered a third switch as suggested in the videos.) Bought a tamper-proof star bit to get the cover off. Followed the directions to replace the switches. - I broke the harness and had to use some super glue, but it's all good. I should have removed the harness instead of trying to get a switch out while it was still in place. It's all back together, and the wife is happy!!
1) Removed 4 screws securing the microwave to the cabinet.2) Slid microwave out, unplugged and placed on a work surface that allowed lower trim to hang over. 3a) Removed two screws and removed the cover on top of the oven. 3b) Unplugged high voltage plug from Magnatron. 4) Removed wires from overtemp fuse mounted to Magnatron. 5) Removed the four screws securing the Magnatron to the oven. 6) Removed Manatron. It's a tight fit, but can be done without removing anything else. 7) Replaced Magnatron. This is where I needed the magnetic part retrieval tool. The nature of a Magnatron is the use of strong magnets surrounding the tube. Getting the four screws back into place wasn't possible with just a normal magnetic screwdriver tip. I used the retrieval tool to position the screws back in place. Be sure to not initially tighten any screw completely, until they can be evenly tightened. This ensures correct compression/seating of the shielding material near the neck of the tube. 8) Reverse removal steps. Plugged in and tested microwave function on a cup of tap water. 9) Reinstated in cabinet and got a big thank you kiss from the wife!
Microwave would not heat anything and turntable no longer turned.
I decided the door switch was the problem because 2 problems happened at the same time. I removed the 4 screws for the top outside cover and the 1 screw that held the control board. After removing the control board screw, I lifted it up and removed it. This gave me access to the 3 door switches. I then removed the 2 screws that held the plastic piece that holds the switches. This made it easier then to replace the switches.
Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row. 1. Unplug device. 2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet. 3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover. 4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place. 5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws. 6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3). 7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.
First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!
M/W mounted in wall so the hardest part was dismounting it and remounting it. That involved removing the frame, removing the top and bottom brackets, unplugging the unit and sliding it out. The repair was just removing about 10 sheet metal screws that held the metal case on and then unplugging the wires to the lamp and removing one screw that held the lamp in. That whole process in reverse puts it all back together.
Now the lamp works great when the M/W is in use or when the door is open. However, since it was a "Me" operation, I now have another problem. When the M/W is in use it is really quiet like maybe there is a fan not working. And after a medium to long use, the whole thing blacks out and cannot be used again until it all cools down. Once the display comes back on, you have to reset the clock and it's ready to go for the next usage.
I guess I either unhooked something or shorted something when I had the case open. Obviously I'll be taking it apart again soon.
Symptom: Terrible sparking coming from the right side of the microwave even with nothing in the microwave. The part that was behind the cover was the business end of what I learned was the magnetron,
Repair process: Without appliance repair experience I went onto Google and searched for parts for my model PEB1590DM2WW. I was able to find a great parts schematic on partselect.com. At first I ordered a magnetron and while waiting for the parts to arrive I also learned that the capacitor can also fail easily as described in the other install feedback on the partsselect website. So I ordered a capacitor just in case. These convection microwaves are around $600 new so a $80 in parts is not out of line for 8 years of service. I installed the magnetron first and turned it on. sparking immediately continued so I quickly shut the unit off. After replacing the capacitor and letting it charge for several minutes before trying to start the microwave cycle was the issue. I choose to leave the replaced magnetron as the original unit was discolored and felt the replacement was inexpensive insurance. I also learned that if the wave guide (which is a plastic/metallic composite material) that covers the opening to the magnetron is burnt or has metal melted to it as mine did it will act similar to the microwave having metal inside the enclosure and will continue to spark and basically melt the wave guide further. Replacing the wave guide was very easy as well.
I am very thankful for the knowledge base and support available from Partselect.com as they made this repair possible on my own. Thank you partselect.com
Microwave does not have power at all, though outlet has power
unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......
Removed each switch (3) and checked them with multi-meter; got intermittent readings on two of the three. Also broke of a piece of the frame that holds the switches trying to remove them (old, exposed to heat and moisture over the years caused the plastic to become brittle and the wiring connectors were also hard to disconnect probably because of heat and moisture over the years). Went to PartSelect web site and discovered the three switches and frame were bundled in to one part number, 43501A. So, I called and spoke with a very knowledgeable technician and she explained why plus helped me order the part over the phone. When I received the part, the switches were already mounted in the frame and the frame was modified compared to the OEM frame. As I began to remove the old frame, I discovered why the new frame was modified. It was as if PartSelect had done many of these door interlock repairs and they knew exactly where and how to modify the frame and communicated this with the manufacturer, because the new frame installation was very easy, there was nothing hard about installing the new frame with the switches already in place. I then reconnected the wiring to the switches and tested the microwave and it works fine now, Problem solved, Thanks PartSelect.com
Arcing had caused burned turntable and melted connection to sec. motor.
Note: also had to replace turntable. Removed top cover using secure driver set. Placed microwave on it's front, using a soft towel. Removed edge screws from bottom plate (leaving 4 screws in center attached to heavy transformer). Separated bottom plate from body of microwave (leaving transformer wires still attached) exposing Synchronous motor. Removed two screws holding motor and electrical plug. Swapped new motor in its place. Re-attached bottom plate with its screws. Placed microwave onto it normal position. Re-attached top cover with its secure screws. Installed new turntable inside.
Disassembled the front cover, found slow blow fuses, then replaced with microwave fuses 250V-20Amp. Utilized a few fuses to pin point the problem, Microwave functions all worked except the express feature, made an assumption after using a tester that it was the high voltage capacitor and the diode that attaches. Replaced both, plugged in and tested. Worked! reinstalled the unit. Sucessfull for the past month.
